Gloxinia transplant

Gloxinia is a perennial indoor flowering plant that, with the onset of autumn and the arrival of short daylight hours, goes into a state of dormancy and remains in it until the end of February. As soon as the first spring sun warms up, the tubers begin to wake up and the flower comes to life. It is during this period that it is necessary to transplant the plant to a new place. The appearance of sprouts is a signal to start a transplant. In order for gloxinia to fully continue to develop in a new place, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory measures necessary for this process.

The main principles of the transplant

Pot selection

The flower pot should be only 5-6 cm larger than the tubers in diameter. In a too spacious container, the flower will direct all its forces to building up the leaf and root parts, and the flowering process will be postponed to a later time. In addition, a large pot will contribute to waterlogging of the soil and dangerous retention of moisture near the roots.

Soil requirements

Gloxinia prefers light, nutritious, moisture-permeable soil with good air permeability. An excess of moisture and stagnation of water in the substrate is not recommended. This can lead to root rot. It is good if the basis of the soil is peat.

Every indoor plant lover always has a choice - to purchase a ready-made potting mix or prepare it yourself. Among the ready-made nutrient substrates, gloxinia is ideal for growing violets. True, for ease, it is recommended to add a little vermiculite or any other baking powder to it.

At home, flower growers can prepare a soil mixture from the following components:

  • Option 1 - equal parts of fine river sand, humus, turf and leaf land;
  • Option 2 - 3 parts of peat and leaf land, 2 parts of clean river sand.

For better adaptation of plants in a new place, it is recommended to add additional nutrition in the form of humus or rotted manure to the soil mixture. One liter jar of substrate will require 50 g of fertilizer.

Drainage layer

Drainage is very important for the quality growth and full development of plants. It must be placed on the bottom of the flower pot before planting. Also, the drainage layer allows you to set the required depth of the tank. As drainage, you can use crushed coal, expanded clay, small fragments of earthenware, river pebbles, small pieces of foam.

Tuber preparation

After preparing the flower container and potting mix, you can start preparing the tubers. First, it is recommended to remove them from the old pot, rinse thoroughly and remove dried roots. Rotten and damaged roots must be carefully cleaned with a knife and sprinkled with charcoal or activated carbon powder. And it is better, after stripping the roots, first to place the tubers in a special disinfecting solution (for example, based on phytosporin) and leave them there for at least 30 minutes. Such a preventive measure will protect the flower from root rot in the future. After soaking in a fungicidal solution, the tubers must be thoroughly dried for 20-24 hours, after which they will become suitable for planting.

A good quality and strong planting tuber must be firm and smooth. If the surface is flabby, then it is advisable to place it in a container with wet river sand for 2-3 days or for several hours in a stimulating solution.

Features of planting tubers

When planting gloxinia tubers that have not awakened (without sprouts), it is very important to plant them in the right direction - future sprouts up. The tuber is buried in the soil approximately 2/3 of its height. The top does not need to be covered with earth. Immediately after planting, the soil is watered and the container is covered with a plastic bag, creating greenhouse conditions for the flower. It is recommended to keep the covered pot in a bright and warm room.

Tuber care consists of regular watering, as well as daily airing for 20 minutes. With the complete formation of two leaves, the plant begins to gradually accustom to normal indoor conditions. To do this, for 5-7 days, the bag is removed from the pot during the daytime, and put on again at night. After 5 days, the "greenhouse" cover can be removed completely, and soil mixture must be poured into a flower pot with a young plant so that it covers the tuber by 1-2 cm.

Why does gloxinia not bloom

Gloxinia (or Sinningia) is a perennial tuberous plant that has appeared on our windowsills from the deciduous forests of Brazil and Peru. Its incredibly beautiful velvety bells, terry, with a frill around the edge or classic shapes, can be of a variety of shades: from white and pale pink to dark purple and bright red. Often there are hybrids with amazing two-tone combinations or strewn with bright specks.

The bloom of gloxinia is a very spectacular and bewitching sight. But, unfortunately, sometimes gloxinium breeders are deprived of the opportunity to admire the wonderful inflorescences of tender bells - their pet refuses to bloom. Why is this happening? There may be several reasons, and all of them, as a rule, are associated with mistakes in flower care.

  • For example, sinningia gets improper feeding... The lack of flowers in combination with yellowing of the foliage can indicate both a lack of nutrients and an excess of nutrition with individual mineral components.
  • Gloxinia reacts sharply to lack of lighting, especially if the rest period ended a little earlier than the set time. In winter, this condition can be exacerbated by unnecessarily high, due to central heating, indoor temperature and low humidity. In such conditions, the stem is strongly elongated, and flowering occurs with a great delay or does not occur at all.
  • You will not wait for flowers even if the synningia is infected with any disease, since all the plant's forces go to pest control. Transplanting and treatment with appropriate insecticides will help to cope with such a problem.
  • Improper planting can also cause the lack of flowers. The mistake would be to plant the bulbs in too spacious container... In this case, all the forces of gloxinia will be spent on increasing the size of the tuber.
  • Sometimes a situation arises when the flowers and buds already thrown out by the plant begin to curl and die. This happens from insufficiently high temperature in the room or from a draft.
  • It is difficult to make an old plant bloom. If you have a tuber long enough, water it more than the younger synningia.
  • With careful care, gloxinia blooms all summer with a short break between the first and second waves. But a plant improperly processed after the first flowering cannot throw away the buds for the autumn stage.

What should you pay special attention to so that with the onset of spring it is guaranteed to get lush inflorescences?

  • A very important factor affecting future flowering is the correct plant treatment at the end of the growing season... For the onset of the second wave, immediately after the death of the first bells, it is required to cut off the stem and leave only a few lower leaves. Several stepchildren can be obtained by starting feeding that stimulates growth. Of these, it is necessary to leave only the strongest for the formation of new buds. During this period, you should start using fertilizers for flowering plants, but you no longer have to wait for too active flowering, and this is normal.
  • It is very important for sinningia rest after flowering for several months... In order for the tuber to "go into hibernation", it is necessary to gradually reduce watering immediately after flowering, and the amount of lighting with the onset of autumn will decrease naturally. In such conditions, the foliage should completely dry out, giving the tuber all the nutrients. After that, it must be removed, and the tubers themselves must be removed from the ground, treated with a fungicizing solution and dried. The prepared bulbs are sprinkled with sawdust or vermiculite and removed to a dark, cool (from +8 to + 15 ° C) place to rest. Gloxinia should be periodically checked and moistened 1–2 times a month by spraying.
  • If the storage of tubers is organized correctly, then the flower will wake up in January-February. It should be planted in a small, about 10-12 cm in diameter pot with fresh substrate. Bulbs that woke up too early should be removed from sprouts and sent to rest further, since too short daylight hours will still not allow you to grow a strong aerial part with lush flowers, and sinningia does not treat artificial light well.
  • An important role in the formation of flowers is played by fertilizers... Timely and correct feeding will guarantee a long and lush flowering. For application during the active growing season, around April-August, the usual mixture for flowering plants works well. It should be brought in about once a week. The composition should contain a large percentage of potassium and phosphorus, but very little, no more than 11%, nitrogen. An excess of nitrogen will lead to an increase in green mass and will not allow the plant to bloom. It is also not worth getting carried away with phosphorus, as this will provoke too active, but short flowering. Remember that freshly rooted cuttings and recently transplanted tubers should not be fed, and fertilizer should be applied only after watering, so as not to burn the root system.

Description of the plant

Gloxinia is a perennial stemless or short-stemmed plant. Its shoots are fleshy, the leaves are large or small (depending on the species), ovoid, dark green in color, velvety.

Flowers from small to large, can be of different shapes, 1.5-12 cm in diameter, sometimes more, usually corrugated along the edge. The color of the flowers of Gloxinia can be different. Dark purples are more common, but there are also pinks, whites, closer to blue or red tones. Flowers can be monochromatic or multi-colored. One plant blooms at once 30-40 flowers at the same time. Of course, for this you need to choose the right variety and provide it with very good growth conditions. Most often, about 8 flowers can be found on one bush at the same time. Flowering duration is approximately 3 months - from March to June, but this figure may differ from cultivar.

Growing periods

After a while, re-flowering occurs. During this period, the soil is enriched with mineral complexes for flowering perennials. After the end of this period, the plant prepares for winter rest. It gradually fades, the leaves wither and dry out. Then all the foliage is cut off, leaving a stump up to 2 cm high. The pot is sent to a cool, dark place and left there until spring. Caring for him consists in watering once a month.

Sometimes the tubers are removed from the soil and placed in a plastic bag filled with a mixture of soil and vermiculite. It is tied tightly and left in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf or in a vegetable drawer.

Gloxinia - queen on my windowsill, this is a perennial tuberous plant with amazing gramophone flowers. Delicate flowers that can decorate your windowsill, they are unpretentious in maintenance and reproduction.

  • Reproduction:

Although it will take a little more effort, the result will live up to expectations. I'm just starting the path of growing store-bought seeds, but I know of such growers who create copyright hybrids, going the hard way from pollination to collecting seeds.

With proper care and good seed, the first buds can be obtained after three months.

✘Leaf cut or leaf fragment.

One of the simplest and most common ways. The leaf should be placed in a glass of water, I usually use a piece of the leaf if it is rotten. Flowering is already possible in three months.

If the purchased leaf on the way home becomes sluggish, then it must be completely immersed in warm water for about an hour, so that turgor forms in it again.

  • Transfer:

I transplant flowers once a year, I renew the land in late February or early March. I buy a special soil for violets. The mixture is additionally diluted with coal, perlite or vermiculite and moss. I pour drainage at the bottom.

For young plants I use small pots, and for adult plants I use a 1-liter container with a diameter of 10 cm. I choose plastic products because they are inexpensive, lightweight and easy to maintain.

I gently shake off the tuber from the old earthen coma, I don't deeply bury it in the pot. The upper branches should be on the surface.

  • Care:

It can be compared to care for violets, so if you have little experience with the maintenance of these flowers, you should not have problems with glocks.

The flowers are unpretentious. They like diffused light, do not like when water gets on them when watering.

I water it when the clod dries up - this is approximately every two days. On the south side, in the warm season, it is better to shade the windows.

Excess light is bad for plants. Direct light leaves ugly burns on delicate leaves.

It is important not to allow strong temperature changes and drafts, otherwise gloxinia can quickly die.

With a lack of light, the plant stretches upward.

If dots, bites are visible on the leaves, over time the leaves dry out and their edges are turned up - this means that the plant is eating thrips or ticks.

Gloxinia is susceptible to fungal diseases and is susceptible to pest attacks. Therefore, for prophylaxis, once every six months, I treat it with mite or phytoverm.

Gloxes are fed once a month, alternating feeding. At the end of August, I stop fertilizing and wait for them to go to bed.

✘ Winter hibernation.

After the gloxinia have faded, I cut off the top of the head and put it in water, then I root it and get a new bush.

My flowers do not hibernate, I do not insist on this. During the winter period they stretch a lot, so I again cut off the stretched head of the flower and root it. The tuber again gives stepchildren in a week or two. And already at the end of March, you can enjoy flowering.

✘Why doesn't gloxinia bloom?

Due to excess nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass, but slows down the flowering process. The plant sometimes does not bloom due to lack of light or too low temperature.

Flowers on the windowsill sometimes evoke mixed feelings. Immediately I remember geraniums, lace napkins, a space full of flowers that look like impassable dusty jungle in broken pots, the "army of greens" attacks the windowsill and makes it impossible even to open the window normally.

Perhaps because of such associations, many owners these days are in no hurry to acquire plants, preferring to leave the windowsills free.

Meanwhile, everything can be different! Green spaces are the most relevant decoration tool.

Gloxinia is an incredible bouquet, the number of buds on one plant reached 25 pieces. Tall bells on soft peduncles can fall off, so they should be fixed.

Due to the abundance of different shades, it is possible to create compositions from flowers, they decorate not only the home interior, but can also perfectly be turned in the office.

Glocks are the perfect gift. It is a compact dwarf with excellent double flowers.

Flowering nuances

Just a few simple rules and your gloxinia will delight with abundant flowering.

The duration of this process depends on the number of opened buds and the duration of the stay of the flower on the culture.You can influence this by creating certain conditions for the plant. The development of buds depends on several factors:

  1. First of all, lighting plays a role. It should be bright enough and reach the flower from 12 to 14 hours during the day.
  2. The temperature regime is set within 18-22 ° C.
  3. The flower should be in loose, nutritious soil. This is achieved by adding peat and top dressing to the soil mixture.
  4. Flowers often do not open when there is a lack of moisture. Watering should be regular.
  5. Plants are placed so that they do not come into contact with leaves and do not interfere with each other's development. Otherwise, the flower will increase in height, and the number of buds will be small.

If you remove all the leaves, retaining only a 2 cm part of the stem, you can achieve re-flowering. Its abundance also depends on the variety. After the end of the flowering period, the regularity of watering is reduced, and feeding is stopped.

Important! In the absence of the required temperature regime, regular moisture, sufficient lighting and feeding, flowering may not occur at all.

The bell is equal-leaved. Flower "Bride and Groom"

Campanula: indoor flower "bride and groom"

BELL EQUAL (Campanula isophylla Moretti) is a plant species from the Bellflower genus, Bellflower family. Homeland - Mediterranean. Has a name: "bride and groom" flower, indoor bell, campanula, "shooting stars". It is the only bellflower species grown as an indoor crop.

Bells used to be very popular. "The bride and groom" were presented for happiness to newlyweds. It was believed that a family in which bells grow and bloom well will be strong and happy! Her variety with white flowers is called 'Alba' ('Alba'), and with blue - 'Mayi'. Flowering begins in spring and can continue until late autumn. It blooms so profusely that sometimes you cannot see the foliage because of the cap of the star-shaped flowers.

In fact, the genus is very diverse and includes more than 300 species. Most of them are annual and perennial herbaceous plants with a height of 10 to 150 cm, suitable for flower beds, borders and alpine slides. Indoor flowers are grown in a hanging planter so that delicate herbaceous shoots reaching a length of 30 cm can hang down.

There are bells with densely double, rose-like flowers. It turns out that these lovely terry bells are hybrids obtained by crossing Carpathian and spoon-fed bells (C. carpatica x C. cochlearifolia 'Pleno'). This hybrid is often sold in flower shops, but it is difficult to keep it at home: the flowers and buds dry out, and the shoots gradually begin to die off. After acquiring it, you need to immediately provide a bright cool place, water it on time and not dry it.

Campanula isophylla Moretti is a perennial herb about 15 cm tall, creeping stems, creeping leaves on long petioles, alternately arranged, heart-shaped, about 5 cm long. The surface of the leaf is light green, with a jagged edge. Panicle inflorescences, flowers are light blue or white, bell-shaped, five-petaled, up to 3.5 cm in diameter. The fruit is a capsule.

Together with the ampelous begonia, Campanula will delight us with its abundant flowering from spring to late autumn. The flower "female happiness" will make a worthy company in the interior.

Reproduction and care of home bells

It is said that the plants do better when they are together, but the attempt to plant both forms in one pot was unsuccessful - the "bride" completely supplanted the "groom". Probably some people prefer to grow them in separate pots. But it doesn't matter. Perhaps someone has experience growing them together.

For growing terry bells, the same conditions are necessary as for Campanule isifolia. In summer, bright lighting, regular watering, in winter, cool wintering and the brightest place. From spring to autumn, flower fertilizer is applied every 2 weeks. Abundant flowering can be achieved by picking off fading flowers in time.

As soon as the flowering period comes to an end, the bells need to create conditions for good rest. The upper parts of the shoots usually have time to dry out by this time, so they can be decisively cut off. New flower buds will subsequently develop from the lower parts, so it is undesirable to touch them.

As a rule, shoots are cut at the end of winter or in spring, leaving 2-3 dormant buds. When they grow 10-12 cm, gently pinch the growth point, then the side branches will begin to grow, respectively, there will be more flowers.

Around the second or third decade of March, a transplant is performed, having prepared a nutrient soil. A ready-made soil mixture designed for transplanting azaleas may be suitable - it will perfectly satisfy all their needs for minerals.

Bells are propagated by cuttings, in the same way as garden bells. In early spring, when young shoots reach a length of 10-20 cm, carefully cut them "with a heel" and immediately put them in water or plant in an earthen mixture, pour with phytosporin solution and place in a greenhouse.

The optimum temperature for rooting is 12-13 ° C. Provide daily ventilation. After three weeks, start gradually opening the greenhouse, and after another week, you can put the rooted cuttings on the windowsill, where the bells quickly start to grow. When the plants grow up to 10-12 cm, you can gently pinch the growing point, then the side branches will begin to grow and the bush will be more branched and lush, and the flowering will be more abundant.

A home flower can be propagated by dividing the bush. If the plant has grown a lot, then in the spring we carefully take the flower out of the pot and carefully divide the plant into parts, while trying to keep an earthen lump on the roots. You can simply cut the earthen ball with a sharp knife. Do not divide the plant into too small parts; try not to deepen the plant when transplanting.

See continued:
"Nursing and growing from seeds"

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Why does Gloxinia not bloom and leaves dry?

Many growers notice that very often the leaves of gloxinia do not bloom. What is the reason? This usually indicates that the room has a lot of drafts that she cannot stand or the air is too dry. This situation can be remedied quite simply.

  1. Gloxinia flower moves to a place where there are no drafts.
  2. During the period when the plant should begin to bloom, the humidity rises due to spraying, or you can simply install a bath with water next to it.
  3. Do not forget about feeding - this is the easiest method to stimulate the plant to bloom.

Dry leaves of Gloxinia usually indicate that the plant is preparing for a dormant period. There is nothing dangerous or bad here, this happens from year to year. All that is needed is to cut off the dry foliage and hide the plant until spring, when it starts growing again.

Caring for Gloxinia at home, as well as reproduction, is not very difficult and demanding, the main thing is to know some of the nuances and adhere to the recommendations that were outlined above.

Watch the video: Глоксинии, посадка листьев, результаты моего выращивания! How to grow gloxinia part 21

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