Agrotechnology for growing mini roses on the site


Mini roses from pots took root on the site

Everyone has long known that a rose is always desirable in any garden, but it requires constant care and the presence of a caring hand. I was convinced of this from my own experience.

It was very tempting to grow roses on my site, and I bought seedlings in the Baltic States, more precisely - in Latvia. They have been cultivated there for a long time. My purchase was a burgundy hybrid tea rose, a climbing rose with pale pink flowers and a bush rose with small bright red flowers.

All these seedlings were planted on the site in compliance with all requirements and recommendations. They took root and then began to delight and amaze with their beauty and abundant flowering. The second growing season was marked by excellent development of all types of roses.

And if on a climbing rose, still a young bush, in the first season there were huge fragrant pale pink flowers; there were only two flowers on the tea rose, and the bush rose became an elegant bush with a small amount of bright red flowers, then in the second summer two lashes up to one and a half meters long grew, which were all in flowers; the tea rose was unusually good, decorated with many flowers and buds, and the bush rose was simply glowing due to the abundance of flowers.

The trouble happened in winter, in a harsh winter, when in the Tikhvin district of the Leningrad region frosts reached -30 ° С ... -32 ° С. The shelter then did not sleep roses, but it was unrealistic to somehow insulate them, being 250 km from the garden.

All roses died, not only the aboveground part, but also the roots. I decided to repeat my experience, and again purchased seedlings, but only tea roses. Leaving for the city in mid-October and fearing losing my roses, I strengthened their protection for the winter. And in the spring, when I arrived at the site in May, I found that my roses were not frozen, but came out. Unfortunately, I could not come to the site earlier and reveal the insulation.

For several years I only lived on the memories of those failures, switching to peonies, lilies, daylilies, echinacea and other perennials. However, the desire to see roses on my site did not leave me. And then I decided to breed miniature roses mix. Usually they are bought in flower shops and presented for holidays and birthdays. According to the classification of TB Popova in her book "Roses and Hydrangeas in the North-West of Russia," miniature roses are referred to as patio roses, floribunda and flora in miniature form.

In the first growing season, and this was in 2008, from a pot in which there were four separate flowering twigs of an unknown type to me, I created a whole clump of rose bushes. Since the mini-roses in my house in the city appeared in bloom in March, by the time of my arrival in the village, and this was, as always, in early May, the roses had faded.

With the hope of success, I planted them in the ground. Since that day, I have constantly watched their growth and development.

Two weeks later, it was already noticeable that the roses took root, as new shoots of red, like ordinary roses, had begun to grow. I also noticed the buds on these shoots, which opened in July and turned into flowers of a much larger size and changed color compared to the content in pots.

There they were 1.5-2 cm in size - red-haired with a pinkish tinge. Everything changed in the garden. These were no longer twigs, but bushes with flowers 6 cm in diameter. I removed the fading roses, thereby ensuring the best development of the plantings and the buds on them. All summer until autumn they bloomed without interruption, and this was already a success.

Agricultural technology for growing mini roses I differed from the one that is accepted for ordinary roses. There was no need for pits filled with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, which would provide them with food in the first growing season. For mini-roses, I used a flower bed planting in a hole with humus, and also ensured regular feeding of seedlings with complex fertilizer during watering.

Fearing the threat of the last frost in May-June, at this time I covered the bushes with cut plastic bottles from under the water, and if necessary, with a spunbond on top. From stress and to strengthen the immunity of plants, I sprayed them on the leaves with Epin and Zircon. The whole first season I was happy with the successful result of my experiment - my roses were blooming very beautifully.

In the fall, out of four bushes, I left two to winter in place, but first cut them to a height of 10 cm, spud them with compost and covered them with spruce branches. In those places there are snowy winters, I also expected that the spruce branches would hold the snow in this place, prevent it from eroding. And in the spring it will not allow the crust to thicken during thawing.

She transplanted the other two bushes into pots for safety reasons and took them to the city. There I also watched them.

I can say that these roses did not feel very well, they stretched out and, ultimately, died when I did not have time to water them in time. In the spring of 2009, I arrived in the village at my site with two pots of mini-roses of white and bright red color, which I bought in a supermarket. When buying, they had a tag with the inscription: Rose of Cordana Mix.

Having removed the winter shelter from the bushes that remained in the garden, I discovered to my joy that they were alive. I planted four brought bushes to them, and placed two in separate containers with compost soil. I protected them from bad weather by taking them to the greenhouse in which they grew up, and in June I took them out into the air. By this time, there were already several buds on them. In early July, they were supposed to open, but I noticed traces of powdery mildew on the leaves of these bushes. I had to treat them with phytosporin.

The bushes of the roses planted in the ground were smaller, but they looked healthy and also had buds. Red-haired roses of last year's planting bloomed in June, and by July they drove out the buds of new flowers. And another bush with a lone June flower turned into a profusely blooming specimen. The roses that I planted in the container also bloomed - bright red and white.

Of course, in my garden there is no riot of luxurious blooming lilies or huge flowers of peonies, dahlias. However, each flower is unique, each worthy of surprise and admiration. So these roses were very good too.

In August, all the bushes were in buds and flowers, and I never stopped photographing them. I also noticed that the bushes in the containers were not so fresh and lost the lower leaves, although the care and weather conditions were the same for everyone.

Apparently, breathing of their roots was difficult due to the limited volume of the container, so at the end of August I transplanted them into the ground. Thus, my mini-roses have been blooming continuously for three months already, and their appearance was not greatly influenced by bad weather.

The rose bushes that grew over the summer, acquired in 2009, turned out to be of the floribunda type, since they threw out branches with an amount from 6 to 16. The bushes were 60 cm high, the flowers themselves were large - 6-9 cm and bloomed for a long time, opening more and more and more. One detail is interesting: all the bushes below formed branches with a single flower, I used them for cutting, so as not to part with such beauty in the house.

Surprisingly, these cut roses stood for a very long time - two weeks, while maintaining a fresh look. For the winter at the end of September, I again cut off all the bushes (and the ones transplanted into the ground managed to take root), poured compost, covered them with spruce branches, and on top with spunbond. Now I will wait for spring and hope that all my pets will endure the hardships of this winter.

Read also:
- Growing a rose
- Classification of roses
- Selection of varieties and planting of roses
- Types and rules for pruning roses
- Shelter roses for the winter
- Types of roses, their features, the choice of planting material
- Mallow - stock-rose: varieties, reproduction and cultivation
- Rules for grafting roses
- Growing indoor roses, preparing indoor roses for winter
- Miniature and indoor roses
- Pruning roses

Lyudmila Rybkina, gardener,
member of the Green Gift club in Shuvalovo-Ozerki


Cauliflower is relatively frost-resistant - it can tolerate a drop of up to -1 degrees, but at lower temperatures it should be insulated. The heads are especially sensitive to frost, at -2 ° their surface glazes and decays. The most suitable temperature for growing it is +18 +20 degrees.

Cauliflower loves the sun, is very picky about the soil and reacts poorly to lack of moisture. On poor soils, very small heads are tied.

Cabbage is grown in seedlings. Two growing methods are used to grow seedlings:

  • common when seeds are sown in a box or greenhouse and then dived
  • potting, when seeds are planted in individual pots (peat or cardboard), so that they can then be planted with a lump in the ground without damaging the roots.

You can plant seedlings in greenhouses already in mid-April. Since the roots of the plant are very weak, the soil must be saturated with moisture so that the seedlings are strong and grow well. After 45 days, cabbage seedlings can be planted in the ground. The ground must be carefully prepared. Humus, peat, and, without fail, deoxidizers (dolomite, eggshells, ash) should be added to it.

To disinfect the soil (a week before planting the seedlings), the bed must be shed with Fitosporin-M solution or EMkami. The holes should be made deep at a distance of about 25 cm. Then humus or compost is added to them, mixed well and spilled. Next, the peat pots are lowered into the ground and buried until the leaves. The soil around the pots with roots is squeezed.

After planting, the seedlings should be well watered again, and a week later fertilized with bird droppings. Cauliflower loves micronutrient fertilizers such as boron and molybdenum, so foliar feeding with the addition of trace elements can be carried out. It is advisable to mulch the soil around the plants in order to save moisture and drown out the growth of weeds.

In addition to all this, one must not forget about protection from pests. To prevent them from appearing, you need to spray the cabbage with wood ash or tobacco. You can make a solution from tomato stalks, burdocks, and onion skins.

Planting marigolds or calendula in the aisle perfectly scares off the white butterfly. And if the season is very wet, and slugs have multiplied, then after planting the seedlings, you need to sprinkle the bushes and the soil around them with sleeping coffee. All of these methods are very helpful in controlling pests.

As soon as the seedlings in the open field take root and begin to grow, the plants are slightly huddled. Organic fertilizers (but not fresh manure) can be added before hilling. Water the cauliflower to the full depth of the fertile layer, and adjust the irrigation rate depending on weather conditions.

The heads begin to form when a powerful rosette of leaves develops. Therefore, try not to press the plants when planting, give them their proper place. When the heads begin to tie, they need to be covered with gauze (you can also use a newspaper, but it is more difficult to fasten it). Then the inflorescences will be pale white and pleasant to the taste.

The heads grow quickly - only 7-10 days, during this period, nutrients outflow into the head from the lush leaves. Therefore, take care and do not cut off the leaves, they are a guarantee of the harvest.

A well-developed plant has 15-20 large leaves and several small ones located around the head. Cauliflower leaves develop better at 18 degrees. At temperatures above 25 °, cabbage may stop growing (leaves will not grow). And overexposure of seedlings in a greenhouse at high temperatures can lead to shredding and looseness of the heads.

Cabbage is harvested when the heads grow to the desired size, but the inflorescences should not crumble. Usually all cabbage varieties ripen before the end of August. You need to remove the heads with a knife.

Pay attention to these varieties of cauliflower:

  • Summer resident - this variety bears fruit for a very long time. The head is round white. The heads are suitable for freezing, pickles, salads and soups.
  • Snowdrift - the color of this variety is white, the heads are round. It can also be frozen and eaten.
  • Snowy is a mid-early variety with dense white heads.
  • Robert is a mid-early variety with round white heads.
  • Amphora is a hybrid of broccoli and cauliflower. Heads in the form of shells of light green color. This variety can be eaten, including fresh.
  • Purple - the heads are deep purple in color, can be eaten and frozen.

That, perhaps, is all the intricacies of growing cauliflower. It remains only to add that it can be sown 3-5 times a season with an interval of 2 weeks in order to get healthy products from July to September. Although it does not lie for a long time, it is excellent in freezing. As you can see, the agricultural technique for growing cauliflower in the open field is not so difficult, so we strongly recommend trying to grow it in your area.

(7 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

The most popular plum-cherry hybrids (photo, description)

The first cherry plums from the American continent - "varieties" Opata, Sapa, Okiya, Cheresoto... Later, on their basis, the SVG were withdrawn Hiawatha, Chinook, Beta, Miner and a number of others.

Consider some of the most interesting and sought-after plum and cherry hybrids - perhaps you will pick up a plant for planting next season.

SVG of American selection, one of the first forms of plum-cherry hybrids.

Medium early hybrid. The tree is spreading (rather a wide-spreading bush), low (up to 2 m), with a sparse rounded crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2nd-4th year of life, high-yielding, disease-resistant.

Fruits weighing up to 20 g, rounded, with dark reddish-brown skin and yellow-green juicy and sweet, slightly bland pulp.

Omsk night

Early hybrid, fruits ripen in mid-August. The tree is compact, undersized (up to 1.5 m), with a sparse crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2-3rd year of life, high-yielding.

Fruits weighing up to 15 g, round, with a very dark purple-black skin and yellow-green juicy, very sweet pulp.

Mainor (miner, mainor)

Medium early hybrid, fruits ripen in late August - early September. The tree (rather a bush) is compact, semi-dwarf (up to 1.3 m), with a rounded crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2nd year of life.

Promising for cultivation in a creeping form. Differs in increased resistance to adverse weather conditions.

Fruits weighing up to 15 g, flat-round, with maroon skin and burgundy juicy and sweet pulp.

Early hybrid. The tree is spreading (rather a wide-spreading bush), undersized (up to 1.5 m), with a shale-type crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2nd-4th year of life. High-yielding.

Fruits weighing about 15 g or slightly more, rounded, with maroon skin, small bones and red juicy and sweet pulp, similar in taste to sweet cherries.

Pyramidal

The hybrid is mid-season. The tree is compact, semi-dwarf (up to 1.3 m), with a compressed pyramidal crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2-3rd year of life. High winter hardiness, average drought resistance. Disease resistant.

In fruiting, the plant is very decorative.

Fruits weighing about 15 g, round, with yellow-green skin and yellow-green juicy and sweet pulp with a slight acidity. Medium bone.

The hybrid is mid-season. The tree is spreading (rather a broadly spreading bush), low (up to 2 m), with a rounded crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 3rd year of life. Very hardy.

Fruits weighing up to 20 g, round, with purple waxy skin and lilac juicy pulp.

Medium early hybrid. The tree is spreading, low (up to 2 m), with a lush columnar crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2nd-4th year of life.

Fruits weighing up to 20 g, ovoid, with dark purple skin and pinkish juicy and sweet with sour pulp.

Early hybrid. The tree is spreading (rather a wide-spreading bush), medium-sized (up to 2.3 m), with a compact reverse-pyramidal crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 2nd year of life.

Fruits weighing up to 20 g, round, with yellow-green skin and yellow-green juicy and sweet-sour pulp.

Dessert Far Eastern

Early hybrid. The tree is spreading (rather a wide-spreading bush), low (up to 2 m), with a sparse crown. Begins to bear fruit in the 4-5th year of life.

Fruits weighing up to 20 g, broadly oval, slightly elongated, with a dark reddish-purple waxy skin and pale green juicy, very sweet pulp with a honey aroma.

The hybrid is mid-season, the fruits ripen in early September. The tree is spreading (rather a broadly spreading bush), low (up to 2 m), with a crown of medium density. Begins to bear fruit in the 3-4th year of life.

Very winter-hardy, easily propagated by green cuttings.

Fruits weighing up to 10 g, rounded, with a dark black-purple waxy thin skin and yellow-green juicy and sour-sweet pulp with a slight pleasant astringency. The bone is well separated.

If such an unusual tree also grows on your site, be sure to share photos in the comments.


How to grow a watermelon

In the harsh Siberian climate, seeds for seedlings should be sown from April 20 to 25. Sowing earlier is not recommended, because the seedlings can outgrow, and during transplantation in open ground or a greenhouse it will take a long time to take root. Before sowing, the seeds should be kept on a damp cloth for several days. Sprouted seeds are immediately planted in prepared and treated soil.

It is recommended to sow each seed in a separate glass or pot with a capacity of 0.7 to 0.8 liters. To grow a watermelon correctly, you need to choose a soil that is light, breathable and with the addition of rotted manure and sand. To accelerate the sprouting process, the temperature must be maintained between 30 and 32 ° C. As the temperature drops, watermelon seeds will emerge more slowly or may not emerge at all.

Ten days after germination, the first feeding should be carried out. A water-soluble complex of mineral fertilizers is suitable for this. A concentrated organic fertilizer mixture is not recommended. After a week and a half, fertilization can be repeated. Watermelon watering should be abundant and only warm water. It is necessary to regularly loosen the soil.

In early May, it is better to transfer the seedlings to a greenhouse or to a glazed loggia to provide enough light for growth and development.

The date of planting seedlings depends on the specific weather conditions and the location of the site. The recommended period starts from late spring to mid June. After planting, it is better to cover the plant with covering material in order to quickly grow a watermelon.

A couple of days before transplanting, the seedlings must be hardened - to accustom them to the climate of open ground. Within five days, you need to gradually increase the amount of time the seedlings stay without insulating material. If at night the air temperature is not less than 8 ° C, then it is possible not to close it at night.

If the summer period is very warm, then the first harvest of watermelons should be expected at the end of July. The main crop can be harvested at the end of summer (from 15 to 20 August). If the weather is hot at the end of August, you should not rush to remove all the watermelons, until the beginning of autumn the harvest may still grow.


Site preparation

they grow potatoes without seedlings, so they prepare the soil only in the garden.

The culture loves nutritious light soils. An excellent option is black soil. Heavy soil is diluted with sand. Solanaceae love slightly acidic soil. In soils with high acidity, the culture will also grow, but the yield will decrease, and the likelihood of being damaged by pests is higher. If the acidity is lowered, add ash or dry lime (1 tbsp. Per 1 m2).

Choosing Potatoes

places - light-loving plant... Illuminated areas of the garden are well suited for him. The soil chosen in the water should not be too close to the surface.

The potato bed should not have grown nightshade crops for the past 2 years. Good melons: predecessors, legumes, greens, cabbage, carrots.

On the site, the rules of the competent neighborhood of plants are observed. other nightshades are not planted nearby to avoid diseases and pests.

Fertilization

In the fall, the beds are dug up and cleaned of weeds. 6 kg or humus of cow manure is applied to the soil for each 1 m2. Additionally, the collected ones clean the remains of plants from roots and seeds, the rest are crushed and buried in the ground.

In the spring, they dig up the soil again and clear the weeds. Ash is added to the ground (1 st. Per 1 m2), superphosphate (25 g per 1 m2) and urea (15 g per 1 m2). All fertilizers are mixed with soil.

Important! The beds are watered with hot cooked, a solution of 1 bucket of water and 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate.

Each potato hole is filled with a handful of some. ash vegetable growers use long-acting granular mineral fertilizers.


Cons of a vegetable garden in bags

Of course, it cannot be argued that vertical beds are a panacea for all "garden" problems. This agricultural technique also has a significant disadvantage.

The main disadvantage of a bagged vegetable garden is that it requires more frequent watering. However, coping with caring for the beds is not a tricky business. The main thing is to think over their location on the site so that the well or column is nearby. This will greatly facilitate the watering process.

The bagged garden requires frequent watering


When to start harvesting

In books for gardeners, it is usually recommended to start harvesting potatoes at a time when the tops begin to dry out. In my garden, I have never observed such a phenomenon. Until the first autumn frosts, the bushes are green, not going to wither. Apparently, due to the high hilling, potato plants have the opportunity to rejuvenate, as it were, constantly growing new roots.

A week before harvesting, the tops should be cut and put into compost so that they do not cause fungal diseases in the tubers. At this time, the potatoes in the ground will "ripen", their skin will become thicker and stronger, which contributes to better storage in winter. If the ridges are badly destroyed during the digging of tubers, you need to straighten them with a rake.

Every year, I have such circumstances that my hands reach the digging of potatoes only three weeks after harvesting the tops from the field. And all this time, the tubers lie quietly in the voluminous ridges, waiting in the wings, they are not afraid of the September cold snaps. Sorted, sorted and well dried, they are then perfectly stored in the cellar until the next harvest.


Watch the video: How to grow Rose form cuttings at home easy method.


Previous Article

Lemon Problems: The cold has damaged my lemon

Next Article

Streptocarpus: growing from seeds, reproduction, transplantation, species, photo