Cucumbers Siberian garland: a new over-yielding variety


Cucumbers are an extremely popular vegetable, both fresh and canned, by Russians. Therefore, the gardener needs a lot of them. But the size of the site rarely allows you to plant as many plants as you need to provide the whole family with fruits. Therefore, choose the most productive varieties. Among them, the newest achievement of breeders, the Siberian garland, stands out for the better.

Description of the variety

The Siberian garland is one of the latest achievements of the South Ural breeders. The first hybrids with resistant varietal traits were obtained at the Chelyabinsk breeding station. The variety was named for its extremely abundant fruiting and the ability to adapt to a wide range of not always favorable climatic conditions.

Siberian garland is a new variety that gardeners quickly appreciated.

The variety is suitable for growing throughout Russia, including outside the greenhouse and greenhouse, with the exception of areas with arctic and subarctic climates. The Siberian garland tolerates both prolonged drought and rainy cool weather well.

A characteristic feature that immediately attracts the attention of gardeners is the bouquet or bunch type of fruiting. In place of one flower, 4–5 fruit ovaries are formed. Over the summer, according to the manufacturer, about 400 cucumbers (about 20 kg) can be removed from one plant. But this is possible only when competent agricultural technology successfully coincides with good weather.

The new hybrid ripens very quickly. From the moment of germination to the beginning of the harvest, it takes about 1.5 months. The first fruits are harvested already in the 10th of June. Pollination by bees is not required.

The Siberian garland forms powerful sprawling plants that need artificial formation of a bush. The internodes are rather short, therefore, at a lower plant height than in other varieties, significantly more ovaries are formed.

Fully ripe cucumbers look like gherkins. Their length rarely exceeds 5–7 cm. The skin is thin, not entirely smooth, but it cannot be called lumpy either. It has a beautiful dark green color, gradually changing to a salad closer to the base of the cucumber. The thorns are white, but since they do not prick, it is more correct to call them the edge. Even if you do not remove the cucumbers from the bush in time, they will not outgrow, the skin will not become coarse, and voids will not appear in the pulp.

Variety Siberian garland is distinguished by high yield and excellent taste of fruits.

Only the most laudatory reviews about the taste of the Siberian garland. The pulp, in principle, is not bitter (this is at the genetic level), very juicy, with a pronounced characteristic aroma and a slight hint of sweetness. Another important characteristic for Russians is a distinct crunch.

Video: an overview of the most popular varieties of cucumbers

Advantages and disadvantages of Siberian garland cucumbers

The popularity of the Siberian garland among gardeners is due to the following advantages:

  • High yield regardless of weather conditions and growing method.
  • Early maturity and self-pollination.
  • Duration of fruiting. In areas with a temperate climate, picking of cucumbers continues until the end of September, and in warmer southern regions - generally until the first frost.
  • Excellent taste and versatility. The fruits are suitable both for preparing salads and for all kinds of winter preparations. Pickled and pickled cucumbers are praised by everyone who has tasted them.
  • The ability to adapt to different weather conditions. The Siberian garland successfully takes root even in the regions classified as "the zone of risky farming".
  • Resistant to many common cucumber diseases.

There are also disadvantages:

  • Quite a high price. One packet of five seeds, depending on the place of sale, costs from 70 to 120 rubles.
  • The need to devote a lot of time and effort to planting in order to get a bountiful harvest. However, the same can be said about any kind of cucumber.
  • Not everyone has the opportunity to harvest the fruit every day. And this is necessary so as not to hinder the growth and development of new ovaries, providing the maximum possible yield.

In a greenhouse, the Siberian garland can be grown in almost any region of Russia

Preparation and landing procedure

The Siberian garland is grown through seedlings, by seeds, in a garden bed or under a roof. But any chosen method will require preliminary preparation.

Site selection and preparation of the garden

Cucumbers Siberian garland prefer light partial shade. Under the hot sun, the bushes grow poorly, dry quickly and do not bear fruit too abundantly. If there is no natural protection (shade from a tree, building, fence), build an awning or canopy. A good solution is sunflowers or corn growing nearby. Do not plant beans and peas nearby - in the absence of proper care, the shoots will intertwine tightly.

Cucumbers react poorly to direct sunlight, the Siberian garland is no exception

Remember what grew in this place before. Poor precursors for cucumbers are pumpkins, squash and beets. Good ones are tomatoes, onions, cabbage, corn, potatoes.

The correct cucumber bed is a rather complex design. It is better to prepare it in advance, in the fall. At this time, plant debris is poured onto the selected place - chopped straw and branches left over from trimming trees, shrubs, hay, fallen leaves, needles. The thickness of the layer is 8–12 cm. The same amount of fresh cow dung is placed on top and left to “winter” under the film. In the spring, humus is poured (the layer is slightly thicker than manure). If the soil is acidified, humus is mixed with dolomite flour (300 g per 20 l).

If you prepare the garden in the spring, you will need mineral fertilizers. The selected area is dug up, covered with rotted manure or compost (10 cm layer). Fertilizers are applied on top in a dry form - Nitrofoska and sifted wood ash (respectively 100 g and 1 liter per m²). Further - a layer of soil 10-15 cm thick. The entire structure must be well watered and kept under a black film for at least 7-10 days, making the shelter as tight as possible.

Video: how to properly prepare a cucumber garden

Growing seedlings

Quality seeds are the key to a bountiful harvest. To identify them, prepare a saline solution (50 g per 1 L of water). Throw those seeds that float into the liquid after being lowered into the liquid - they will not sprout.

Most gardeners grow cucumbers in seedlings.

To grow seedlings, you need to act like this:

  1. 24 hours before planting, cucumber seeds are kept in a disinfecting solution (water with the addition of potassium permanganate, streptomycin, zinc sulfate, baking soda, succinic acid) or in fresh aloe juice, half diluted with water (6 hours). Then they are heated at a temperature of 55–60 ° C for 2–3 hours. Some gardeners prefer to harden the seeds by keeping them in the refrigerator for two days in a damp cloth.
  2. Seeds are sown in individual containers in late March or early April, burying no more than 2–2.5 cm into a universal seedling substrate or peat.
  3. The containers are covered with a transparent film and provide a suitable microclimate - bright light (diffused or artificial) and a constant temperature of about 25-28 ° C. Water the seeds every 3-4 days. Cucumbers will rise in about a week.
  4. To stimulate the development of green mass, seedlings are fed several times with a urea solution (2 g per liter). The rate per plant is about 100 ml.
  5. After the emergence of seedlings, the film is removed, first for 5-10 minutes daily, then the time is gradually increased. By the time the first real sheet appears, it must be removed completely. 7-10 days before the expected planting, cucumbers begin to accustom them to new conditions of existence, daily taking seedlings out into the open air or in a greenhouse.

Before planting directly into the ground, the seeds of the Siberian garland are kept in warm (30–35 ° C) water until the sprout hatches. It is advisable to add a little potassium permanganate (pastel pink solution) to decontaminate them.

Before planting in open ground, cucumber seeds must be germinated.

Video: how to grow cucumber seedlings

How to plant correctly

Cucumber seeds are planted in the ground no earlier than the substrate at a depth of 8–10 cm warms up to 15 ° C. This applies to both open ground and greenhouses. The landing time stretches over the whole of May, depending on the climate of the landing region. About 6–8 cm is left between the seeds, 15–20 cm between the rows, the planting depth is 5–6 cm. Before the emergence of shoots, the bed is covered with plastic wrap, and the soil is sprayed as it dries.

Seedlings are removed from the container along with a lump of earth and immersed in a prepared hole to the lower (not real) leaves. The soil is carefully tamped. Before and after planting, the substrate is watered abundantly. It is important not to thicken the planting. 2 Siberian garland cucumbers are planted for each m². If specific preparation has not been carried out, add a handful of wood ash and 5 g of carbamide to the wells.

Correctly planted seedlings look like this

In advance, you need to provide a place for the trellis, along which it will then be possible to start curly lashes. The simplest option is frames with vertically and horizontally stretched wire or strong synthetic twine. In the open field, it is advisable to install arcs or props above the bed so that you can pull the covering material on them if spring or summer frosts are expected.

The nuances of culture care

Cucumbers are a rather whimsical plant that requires the gardener to regularly give it due attention and time. But the harvest, especially of varieties such as the Siberian Garland, is more than worth the effort.

Work in the garden

Cucumbers categorically do not tolerate weeds. Therefore, regular weeding is very important. Mulching with humus, peat crumbs, and freshly cut greens will help save time on them and retain moisture in the soil.

Cucumbers need to be loosened often, breaking the hard crust on the surface of the garden. Loosening is especially important for shrubs grown outdoors.

Watering

Cucumbers are more than 9/10 water. Therefore, as you might guess, you need to water the Siberian garland often and abundantly. The best time for this is early morning or late evening. At other times, droplets remaining on the leaves can cause sunburn.

Before flowering, plants are watered every 3-4 days. When the first ovaries appear, the interval is reduced to 2-3 days. In extreme heat, cucumbers need to be watered daily, sometimes even in the morning and evening. In open field, the interval between waterings depends on how frequent and heavy rainfall is. When the leaves lose their tone, wither, immediately water the cucumbers, even if the deadline has not yet come.

Water is used only heated to 23–25 ° C and allowed to stand for at least a day. Either water the entire garden bed from a watering can, or pour water into the grooves between the bushes. Another acceptable option is drip irrigation. If you water cucumbers at the root, you will quickly wash off the soil from them, they will dry out and will not be able to feed the plants sufficiently. It is best to keep the soil around the stem dry to avoid rotting.

It is also useful to increase the humidity of the air by placing large containers of water next to the plantings of cucumbers. In a greenhouse in extreme heat, you can spray the glass from the inside with water with chalk dissolved in it and periodically arrange shower for the plants by pouring the leaves from the watering can.

When watering cucumbers, do not pour water under the root and try not to get on the flowers

Fertilization

Abundant fruiting greatly depletes the Siberian garland, so cucumbers certainly need feeding. But everything is good in moderation. An excess of fertilizer is just as bad as a deficiency. 4 dressings are enough per season.

The first (15 days after planting the seedlings in the ground or after the appearance of the fifth true leaf) aims to make the cucumber bushes grow as quickly as possible. Therefore, nitrogen is predominantly introduced. Possible options:

  • 25 g of carbamide and 50 g of superphosphate in a 10-liter bucket of water.
  • 5–7 g of dry ammophoska or diammophoska per m².
  • Fresh cow dung, poultry droppings, diluted 1: 8 and 1:16, respectively.

The second feeding is complex. It is carried out 12-16 days after the previous one. The cucumbers are already in bloom. Use:

  • 25 g ammonium sulfate, 45 g superphosphate, 15 g potassium sulfate per 10 liter bucket of water (irrigation).
  • 50 g of superphosphate for the same volume (leaf spraying).
  • Infusion of wood ash - 2 glasses per 5 liters of warm water, the product will be ready in 36–48 hours.
  • Chalk or powdered activated carbon in dry form (scattered over the garden bed - about a glass per m²).
  • A pinch of boric acid, potassium permanganate (to give the liquid a slightly noticeable pinkish color) in half a liter of water for spraying the buds.

The third is carried out a week after the first fruiting. Ripening cucumbers need potassium. The nitrogen dose is gradually reduced to slow down the rate of green mass formation. For 10 liters take:

  • Urea - 50 g (watering) or 30 g (spraying).
  • Potassium sulfate - 15 g.
  • Kalimagnesia (25 g) and Azofosk (10 g).
  • Infusion of any greenery, weeds, topped up with water (1: 6), and urea (10–12 g).
  • Complex liquid fertilizer for cucumbers (according to the instructions) or potassium humate (20 ml), vermicompost.

The fourth feeding stimulates the cucumbers for more abundant and maximum long-term fruiting. It is carried out 10-12 days after the third. For the same volume of water, take:

  • 30 grams of baking soda.
  • 15 g urea (spraying).
  • Fresh pressed (1 kg) or powdered (1 sachet) yeast. The first ones are crushed and poured with warm water for 3-5 hours. The latter must first be diluted in a glass of boiling water with 50 g of sugar and only then poured into the water.
  • Infusion of rotted hay - pour water (equal volume), leave for two days. Spraying of cucumber bushes is carried out three times with an interval of 7 days or a little less.
  • Infusion of cow dung or bird droppings. The product is mixed with water (twice the volume), the container is tightly closed and placed in a warm place under direct sunlight. As soon as the fermentation smell arises, the fertilizer is ready. Stir it well and add water again 1:15 (litter) or 1:10 (everything else).

Wood ash is a natural source of potassium, which is extremely important for the ripening of cucumbers

Bush formation

The Siberian garland is formed into one stem so as not to overload the plant

The Siberian garland, like any cucumber with a bunch type of fruiting, is formed so as to leave one stem. In the first 3-4 points of branching of the bush, "stepsons" are removed to the point of growth, leaving only fruit ovaries here. Further, the "stepsons" are left, but they cut off everything after the second sheet. When the main stem grows to the roof of the greenhouse or the top of the trellis, it is wrapped several times around the support to secure it, and cut off.

The stems of plants that have reached a height of 20–25 cm are immediately wrapped around a vertical guide. The top is left free. All appearing "antennae" and barren flowers (the so-called male flowers) are immediately cut off.

To minimize the effects of injury on the cucumber bush, it is pruned, adhering to the following rules:

  • The most suitable time is before sunrise.
  • Be sure to disinfect the sections by wiping them with a solution of copper sulfate (10-15 g / l) or sprinkling with crushed activated carbon.
  • Harvest a maximum of 7 cm of the shoot at one time.
  • When placing the lashes on the trellis, do not give them an unnatural position, do not twist, do not bend.
  • Regardless of the location, immediately remove dry, yellowed leaves and whips. They shade the plant, take away nutrition from healthy shoots and fruits.

Diseases and pests: how to recognize the problem and deal with it

The authors of the hybrid managed to make the Siberian garland resistant to such common diseases as powdery mildew and downy mildew (downy mildew), brown and olive spot, and cucumber mosaic. Therefore, the gardener will basically have to deal with all types of rot and harmful insects.

Table: ways to control pests and diseases and their prevention

Disease / pestSigns of defeatControl and prevention measures
Root rotOn the stem, at the very base, brown spots, unpleasantly slimy to the touch, appear, rapidly expanding up and down. The leaves lose their tone, wither, the stem turns yellow and cracks, the plant dries and dies.
  • If the cucumber bush has suffered significantly, it can no longer be helped. You can only protect nearby plants from disease by pulling out and destroying the patient, and pouring a 2% solution of any fungicide for disinfection.
  • When the rot has just begun to develop, rake the soil near the stem and water the exposed roots with crushed chalk or wood ash (200 g) mixed with copper sulfate (25 g). The ingredients are dissolved in 10 liters.
  • The drugs are Polycarbacin and HOM (180 g per 10 L). After waiting a couple of days, the cucumbers are poured with Previkur's solution. The procedure is repeated after 12-15 days.
Gray rotLight brown spots appear on fruits and shoots, gradually darkening and becoming covered with a gray bloom. If you press on the damaged area, a cloudy liquid will spray out from there.
  • Do not get carried away with nitrogen-containing fertilizers and use only heated water for irrigation.
  • All whips and fruits with the slightest signs of rot are cut and destroyed.
  • The plants are powdered with a mixture of wood ash and copper sulfate (12: 1). The powder must be rubbed into the sections made, only gently.
  • To prevent the development of rot, Rovral, Trichodermin, Euparen Multi are used every 12-15 days.
  • You can combine spraying with foliar dressing by diluting 2 g of copper sulfate, 1 g of zinc sulfate and 5 g of urea in 10 liters of water.
Melon aphidInsects can be found in abundance on the tops of young shoots. They feed on the juice from the leaves that have not yet fully blossomed. Multiple small dots appear on them, clearly visible in the light.
  • Natural remedies - infusions of any herbs with a pungent smell, hot peppers, crumbs of dried tobacco leaves, wood ash, arrows of garlic, onions. For a liter of water, you need to take 2 handfuls of crushed raw materials, insist at least a day. To prolong the effect, add lather. Processing is carried out every 4-7 days.
  • With the massive spread of the pest, insecticides are immediately applied (Arrow, Fitoverm, Iskra Bio, Aktara, Inta-Vir).
  • Aphids live in a stable symbiosis with ants, so you need to fight both with those and other insects at the same time.
Spider miteSeparate translucent, almost imperceptible threads first appear between the leaves and the stem, quickly turning into a solid whitish mass. On the underside of the leaf plate there is a colorless sticky discharge.
  • Folk remedies are ineffective. Special preparations are used - acaricides (Bicol, Akarin, Fitoverm, Omayt, Neoron, Zolon, Antio). It will take 3-4 treatments with different means (ticks learn to neutralize the poison). The frequency depends on the weather - the hotter, the faster the mites multiply.
  • If the pest manifests itself in the summer, removing the cucumbers completely, the soil is fumigated with sulfur sticks.
WhiteflyPests are easy to spot by shaking the bushes. Small whitish moth-like butterflies will rise from the bushes. The larvae feed on the sap of the leaves, leaving a sticky coating on them, which interferes with normal photosynthesis. Therefore, rapidly expanding yellow spots appear.
  • If there are few pests, the cucumbers are sprayed with infusion of dandelion roots or garlic shoots every week.
  • Bud, Iskra Bio, Tsitkor also helps.
  • Visible larvae are removed by rubbing the leaves with soapy water, which is washed off with clean water.
  • Whitefly distinguishes colors, preferring yellow, therefore traps made of cardboard sheets smeared with jam, sugar syrup, honey are effective against adults.
  • In the early morning, when they are inactive, pests can be harvested by hand.
  • With mass distribution, cucumbers are sprayed with a solution of Fitoverm, Decis, Verticillin, Fufanon, Zeta, Rovikurt.
Sprout flyThe larvae make their way into the cucumber stalk, gnawing long longitudinal passages in it. They can also damage buds and cucumber ovaries. When planting seeds, they eat them from the inside.
  • The bed is kept clean, the soil is regularly loosened to eliminate pest eggs.
  • Spraying non-flowering bushes and beds with Fufanon, Kemifos, Novaktion, Iskra Bio will help prevent the appearance of flies.
  • If you plan to plant seeds in the ground, they are immersed in a Fentiuram solution (2 g / l) for 20 minutes.
Gall nematodeLumps of different sizes appear on the roots - from several mm to several cm in diameter. Areas near them become watery and break easily. Eggs are laid in them. The larvae that emerged from them first eat out the roots from the inside, then rise along the stem, without going outside. The plant seems to wither and dry for no reason.
  • For prevention, the soil is watered with boiling water 2-3 days before planting cucumber seedlings and covered with plastic wrap for a day.
  • Carbation (2% solution) is also suitable for disinfection.
  • Intersperse the cucumber plantings with garlic, which repels nematodes.
There are no effective ways to get rid of the nematode yet.

Photo gallery: how to recognize pests and diseases by appearance

How to properly harvest and keep it for a long time

Ripening fruits are removed from the bushes daily or with a break of several days, starting from the second decade of June. The best time for the procedure is before sunrise or after sunset. This will remove the most resilient cucumbers.

The fruits are cut from the bush with a sharply sharpened clean knife or scissors, leaving a "tail" several cm long. It is strictly forbidden to pull, pull and twist the whips. You can damage the plant.

The harvest of the Siberian garland is a worthy reward for the gardener for his work

Without creating special conditions, the fruits will retain presentability and taste for a maximum of a couple of days. Those who wish to preserve them in their original form for a relatively long time should use one of the following methods:

  • Refrigerated storage in an open bag, covered with a damp cloth, in a special compartment. As it dries, the fabric is moistened again. First, the fruits must be cooled, preventing the appearance of condensation, which contributes to the development of rot. Cucumbers will stay for 7-10 days.
  • Storage in a well-ventilated cellar with a constant temperature of 7–10 ° C and air humidity of 75–90% in wooden or plastic boxes lined with plastic wrap with ventilation holes or in chip-free enamel dishes, preferably with well-fitted lids. The maximum term is about 2 weeks.
  • Storage at home in a place where direct sunlight is excluded. Freshly cut fruits are placed vertically with the "tail" down in wide containers, on the bottom of which water is poured in a layer of 2-3 cm. It should cover only the stalk and the very base of the cucumber. If you change the water daily, the cucumbers will stay fresh for a week.
  • Storage in sterilized glass jars, rolled up with lids. A layer of finely chopped or grated horseradish root 1.5–2 cm thick is poured onto the bottom. The container is stored in a dark, cool place. Shelf life is 4-6 weeks.
  • Coating with protein foam, followed by placement in the cellar. Freshly picked cucumbers are covered with a brush with a strong foam so that there are no unprotected areas left and wait until it dries. Then they are tied by the stalks in pairs and hung in the cellar. The fruits will lie for at least 2-3 months, and in ideal conditions, even until the New Year.

If for some reason it is impossible to immediately identify the cucumbers for storage, at least protect them from the sun by covering them with a breathable dark-colored material.

The best way to save cucumbers for the winter is to harvest

Reviews of summer residents and gardeners about the variety

Siberian garland - delicious over-yielding cucumbers with a long fruiting period. Growing a hybrid is not an easy task, which takes a lot of time and effort from the gardener. Knowing some specific agrotechnical techniques will help to provide yourself with fruits during the season and preserve cucumbers for as long as possible.


Garland cucumbers have recently appeared on the sites of those who like to experiment with new varieties. A large number of young cucumbers hanging from the plant like a garland is delightful. Many people also liked the vitamin fruits themselves.

The list of areas of tolerance for growing the variety is wide. This suggests that the plant develops well in different climatic conditions. The garland is zoned in the following regions:

  • Northern
  • Northwestern
  • Central (including Moscow region)
  • Volgo-Vyatsky
  • Central Black Earth
  • Srednevolzhsky
  • North Caucasian.

The wonderful variety Garland was created by domestic scientists. The developers are the selection and seed company "Gavrish" and the Research Institute of Vegetable Growing in Protected Ground. Included in the State Register in 2010, but has already gained fame among gardeners.

Garland cucumbers are a relative variety.

By the way, in addition to the Garland variety, there is another Siberian Garland variety. But this is not the same plant, the Siberian garland appeared a little later and is the brainchild of the Chelyabinsk breeding station.


Interiors of Siberian collective farmers

Interestingly, the photographers captured the interior view of the rooms in some detail. I will share them in this article.

For example, here is a photograph of a room in A.A. Vdovina. This is the Irkutsk region, Bratsk district, the city of Bratsk. 1957 year. The room looks expensive and rich, according to the concepts of those years.

It can be assumed that other rooms in the house are about the same level.


Interior view of a room in A.A. Vdovina.

But other rooms in it look like this:


The interior in the house of A.A. Vdovina.


Washbasin in the house of A.A. Vdovina.

And here is another house of almost complete namesake. Only it does not belong to A.A. Vdovina, and A. Ya. Vdovina. Also Irkutsk region, Bratsk district, city of Bratsk. 1957 year. This seems to be her living room, the most elegant room in the house.



Table and stools in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.

And in the rest of the rooms it is already like this.


The stove in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.

You can't tell either, these are rooms of the same house. I would be sure that relatively wealthy people live in the house from the first three photos, while the other photos show a poor little house. But it would not have occurred to my head that this is one dwelling.


The interior in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.


The interior in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.


The corner of the kitchen in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.

Or here's another family. It is no longer a city, but a village. And the principle is the same. Irkutsk region, Nizhneilimsky district, Banshchikovo, 1959. Again, the living room is the most elegant place in the house. And again the emphasis is on the bed. It is interesting that everyone always adorns her first of all.


The interior decoration in the house of A.S. Karevich


Decoration of the front corner in the house of A.S. Karevich


A corner in the house of A.S. Karevich.

Or here again - a bed covered with a "felt" in the house of E.N. Chuunin. Irkutsk region, Bratsk district, Ust-Vikhorevo, 1957.


A bed covered with a "felt" in the house of E.N. Chuunin.

And this is the house of his namesake, and obviously a relative - also A.I. Chuunin.


In the house of A.I. Chuunin.


The sofa in the house of A.I. Chuunin.


Kitchen table in the house of A.I. Chuunin.

And finally, the rich house of the head of the pig-breeding farm of the collective farm. Stalin. Everything is already in the same style.


The interior decoration of the dwelling in the house of the collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.


The interior decoration of the dwelling in the house of the collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.


Part of the room in the house of collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.

However, utility rooms like the kitchen are not photographed, so they may look different too. Although, not necessarily, of course. After all, this is the boss's house, and not just anyone.


Corner for clothes in the house of collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.

Source of photographs Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. Peter the Great (Kunstkamera) of the Russian Academy of Sciences.


Interiors of Siberian collective farmers

Interestingly, the photographers captured the interior view of the rooms in some detail. I will share them in this article.

For example, here is a photograph of a room in A.A. Vdovina. This is the Irkutsk region, Bratsk district, the city of Bratsk. 1957 year. The room looks expensive and rich, according to the concepts of those years.

It can be assumed that other rooms in the house are about the same level.


Interior view of a room in A.A. Vdovina.

But other rooms in it look like this:


The interior in the house of A.A. Vdovina.


Washbasin in the house of A.A. Vdovina.

And here is another house of almost complete namesake. Only it does not belong to A.A. Vdovina, and A. Ya. Vdovina. Also Irkutsk region, Bratsk district, city of Bratsk. 1957 year. This seems to be her living room, the most elegant room in the house.



Table and stools in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.

And in the rest of the rooms it is already like this.


The stove in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.

You can't tell either, these are rooms of the same house. I would be sure that relatively wealthy people live in the house from the first three photos, while the other photos show a poor little house. But it would not have occurred to my head that this is one dwelling.


The interior in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.


The interior in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.


The corner of the kitchen in the house of A.Ya. Vdovina.

Or here's another family. It is no longer a city, but a village. And the principle is the same. Irkutsk region, Nizhneilimsky district, Banshchikovo, 1959. Again, the living room is the most elegant place in the house. And again the emphasis is on the bed. It is interesting that everyone always adorns her first of all.

The interior decoration in the house of A.S. Karevich


Decoration of the front corner in the house of A.S. Karevich


A corner in the house of A.S. Karevich.

Or here again - a bed covered with a "felt" in the house of E.N. Chuunin. Irkutsk region, Bratsk district, Ust-Vikhorevo, 1957.


A bed covered with a "felt" in the house of E.N. Chuunin.

And this is the house of his namesake, and obviously a relative - also A.I. Chuunin.


In the house of A.I. Chuunin.


The sofa in the house of A.I. Chuunin.


Kitchen table in the house of A.I. Chuunin.

And finally, the rich house of the head of the pig-breeding farm of the collective farm. Stalin. Everything is already in the same style.


The interior decoration of the dwelling in the house of the collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.


The interior decoration of the dwelling in the house of the collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.


Part of the room in the house of collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.

However, utility rooms like the kitchen are not photographed, so they may look different too. Although, not necessarily, of course. After all, this is the boss's house, and not just anyone.


Corner for clothes in the house of collective farmer N.N. Cardinal.

Source of photographs Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. Peter the Great (Kunstkamera) of the Russian Academy of Sciences.


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Agrofirm "Poisk" is engaged in selection, production and wholesale of seed and planting material: bulbs of garden flowers, seedlings of ornamental and fruit crops, seedlings, indoor plants. The company also sells fertilizers, plant protection products and other useful materials.

Fast & Furious F1

This early maturing female-flowering parthenocarpic hybrid is recommended for cultivation in plastic greenhouses and open field. The period from germination to harvest is 38-42 days. The plant is vigorous, with medium branching. 2-3 ovaries are formed in the knot. The fruits are beautiful, cylindrical, large tuberous, dark green with white thorns. The length of the cucumbers is 10-12 cm, the diameter is 3.5-4 cm, the weight is 110-130 g. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew, olive spot and cucumber mosaic virus. The fruits are used for fresh consumption and canning.

More detailed information about the agricultural firm and the new variety of cucumber can be found on the website www.semenasad.ru.


Cucumbers

Who does not know and does not love cucumbers! In greenhouses and hotbeds, in the garden beds and even on the balcony - they are successfully grown everywhere. Long and smooth salad greens, short sturdy guys “with pimples” for pickling - every year breeders delight us with new varieties, and we experiment on the beds, so that later we will crunch with pleasure with fresh or pickled cucumbers.

Surely in your country house they also grow. And you, most likely, have already accumulated considerable experience, solved more than one “cucumber problem”. Indeed, with all the seeming simplicity of cultivation, in different regions, in different climates, this culture behaves differently. And everyone has their own secrets of a fruitful cucumber garden!
And we decided to combine the experience of lovers of this wonderful vegetable and created a special section where you can share your findings and ask questions of interest.

Experienced a new strain? Share your impressions! Have you learned how to get record harvests of cucumbers? Tell us how you do it! How do you plant? What do you cover and do you cover at all? Sowing in the ground or growing cucumber seedlings? Tying to trellises or prefer traditional cultivation methods? And why did you choose this method? Let's share our knowledge, help to avoid annoying mistakes for those who plant cucumbers for the first time, take note of the successful ideas of other gardeners.


Characteristics of indeterminate varieties

Russia has its own state register, which includes the most grown indeterminate cucumber varieties. Almost all f1 hybrids are immediately approved by leading farming experts.

When choosing seeds for planting, pay attention to the instructions. If the purpose is written only for greenhouse cultivation, then we are talking about an indeterminate form.

Growth and development

The bush develops in height, reaches 1.5 m in height and more. Indeterminate bushes do not require pinching as long as they have sufficient light illumination and a comfortable temperature.

The shrub will not grow wide. All main ovaries run along the main stem. The plant is constantly growing and developing, giving more and more new crops.

Care and landing

Planting is carried out in greenhouse conditions. The culture is planted at a distance of 25-30 cm between the bushes. The soil is pre-mulched and aerated.

Manure is perfect as a fertilizer, in the amount of one bucket per 1 sq. M. You will need a garter of the stems, the construction of a support.


Watch the video: THIS!!! is why I winter sow!


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