Planting Winter Vegetables: Learn About Winter Gardening In Zone 6

By: Liz Baessler

Gardens in USDA zone 6 usually experience winters that are hard, but not so hard that plants can’t survive with some protection. While winter gardening in zone 6 won’t yield lots of edible produce, it’s possible to harvest cold weather crops well into the winter and to keep many other crops alive until the spring thaw. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow winter vegetables, in particular how to treat winter vegetables for zone 6.

Winter Gardening in Zone 6

When should you be planting winter vegetables? Many cool weather crops can be planted in late summer and harvested well into the winter in zone 6. When planting winter vegetables in late summer, sow the seeds of semi-hardy plants 10 weeks before the average first frost date and hardy plants 8 weeks before.

If you start these seeds indoors, you’ll protect your plants from both the hot summer sun and capitalize on space in your garden. Once the seedlings are about 6 inches (15 cm.) tall, transplant them outdoors. If you’re still experiencing hot summer days, hang a sheet over the plants’ south-facing side to protect them from the afternoon sun.

It’s possible to protect cool weather crops from the cold when winter gardening in zone 6. A simple row cover works wonders at keeping plants warm. You can go a step further by constructing a hoop house out of PVC pipe and plastic sheeting.

You can make a simple cold frame by building walls out of wood or straw bales and covering the top with glass or plastic.

Sometimes, mulching heavily or wrapping plants in burlap is enough to keep them insulated against the cold. If you do build a structure that’s tight against the air, make sure to open it up on sunny days to keep the plants from roasting.

This article was last updated on

List of Perennial Vegetables to Grow by Zone

Perennial vegetables are the gift that keeps on giving, season after season and year after year. When planning your vegetable garden for 2021, consider making space for perennial plants: vegetables, perennial herbs, flowers, and of course, fruit and nut crops.

Here’s why a gardener will want to plant more perennial vegetables.

Winter Sowing: Starting Seeds Outdoors

When you first learn about winter sowing it seems a bit mysterious. How can seeds germinate out in the cold—don’t they need warmth and moisture to sprout?

Yes they do. But, some seeds also need a cold chill in preparation for germination and that’s where this method can help.

We call it ‘winter sowing’ but instead of sowing the seeds directly outdoors we’re sowing in clear, closed but ventilated containers like milk jugs that are placed outdoors to experience winter conditions. The seeds remain dormant while chilling, and, as spring approaches, light and heat increase and germination is triggered.

Winter Sowing is suitable for hardiness zones 4 to 8
Look up your zone here: United States | Canada

Which seeds work best?

Winter sowing is best for any cold hardy seeds that require ‘stratification’—that cold chill I mentioned that prepares some seeds for germination. By using containers, we’re basically mimicking what nature does but giving the seeds better odds by sheltering them from extreme conditions and critters that might eat them.

The group of seeds that need a cold boost includes favorites like delphinium, milkweed, lupine, and columbine in addition to cold climate native plants and some trees, shrubs, and vines. These are temperate (not tropical) plants. I’ve included an extensive list of seeds to try (below).

Can I winter sow seeds that are not cold hardy?

Yes. This method can work for any seeds. The difference is, cold-tolerant seeds are started first in the coldest months of winter to provide the necessary chilling period.

Any tender or warmth-loving seeds are started later in spring when there is little risk of night-time temperatures dipping too low. At this point the milk jug is really just acting as a mini greenhouse.

I’ll walk you through the basic steps and supplies needed.

If you just want the list of suggested seeds to try, you can jump to it here: seeds to winter sow.

Tips on Growing Winter Garden Vegetables

  • Consider where you are planting your winter garden vegetables. Containers and raised beds might keep the soil warmer in the spring, summer and fall, but they will be the first to freeze in the winter. You will find more protection for your winter vegetables when you plant them in the ground. This is particularly true for root vegetables.
  • Plant winter vegetables in the sunniest spot in your garden bed to make the most of the shorter days.
  • If you are growing plants in pots, they can quickly and easily be brought indoors or into greenhouses if the temperature plummets.
  • Water can be a best friend to gardeners when growing vegetables in the winter. Water insulates the roots of the crop and protects plants from freezing. If you are expecting extreme temperatures, consider watering the roots well, avoiding the leaves.
  • Add thick layers of mulch around plants in the winter. Mulch will act as a blanket, protecting the plants and their roots.
  • Winter garden vegetables can act as cover crops, protecting the soil from erosion, and replenishing the garden soil with nutrients for subsequent spring and summer crops.

My Planting Schedule For USDA

Early spring crops I plant inside

My target date for startng things outsde is St. Patrick’s Day

Check out, like, and subscrbe to our YouTube Channel

I start doing more direct seeding and transplanting cool weather crops in April. I also start seeding my squashes and melons.

I do like to push my parameters and get tomatoes and peppers outside as early as possible. I play planting by ear based on the weather.

Going into my frost-free season I am transplanting and direct seeding my warm-weather crops.

Going into summer I will continue to fill in the gaps. I typically will plant beans and squashes every two weeks. In May I start planting summer lettuce varieties. I plant Brussel Sprouts in early June as I want them to mature n the fall.

Winter Gardening Tips From Zone 6

What coverings/protections work best for you in your winter garden?

  • Straw for things I may want to pick in the winter. Clear plastic for things I just want to overwinter but not harvest.
  • We use a high hoop house covered with 4-mil plastic and several smaller moveable hoop houses with plastic. We also use cloth or fabric row covers as a secondary cover during colder weather. Last year we tried something new by placing a large candle at both ends of the high hoop house. This was very successful. We are going to try to grow the tomatoes through the whole year this year by using the candle and double or triple covers.
  • Low tunnels.
  • I made a hoop house with PVC pipe over a raised bed that’s 4 feet wide and 15 feet long, and covered it with 6-mil plastic. I used black landscape fabric around the plants to retain the heat. The sun was the only heat source. The raised beds are on a steep southwest-facing slope, and we average a little warmer than the valley. I think our low temperature for the winter last year was -4 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Instead of plastic, I use old blankets to cover crops.
  • I use a hoop house for root vegetables and an unheated mini- greenhouse for most others.
  • I use row covers over collards, kale, pac choi and mizuna. The collards and kale survive the whole winter.
  • I grow under glass windows formed together to create an A-frame.
  • I use standard, plain-old row covers. If it gets really cool (below freezing), I will add a layer of plastic if needed.
  • I cover my raised beds with horticultural grade greenhouse plastic over pvc hoops. Works great.
  • Shredded leaves are wonderful. They provide protection and break down into compost for later on. Just don’t pack them tightly.
  • A seed house or Plexiglas A-frame is the cheapest way to go. You can improvise with a cheap wire frame and some plastic sheeting from Lowes. You have to water it though, as it will be enclosed.
  • My first option is a cold frame made from windows over straw bales my second-best option is heavy clear plastic above a metal frame.
  • I construct a lean-to hothouse from recycled materials: clear plastic, sturdy limbs, rocks for anchors, etc. I cover my Brussels sprouts, and my late crop of turnips and cabbage, and open the ends if the temperature reaches about 35 degrees.
  • I have two unheated greenhouses (small) they just have drums of water on the north side.
  • Medium-weight cotton coverings work for us. Weather here jumps right from snowy and stormy to bright, beautiful sun. There isn’t much transitional time, so we stand ready with coverings on cool nights but also for those too sunny days for seedlings.
  • I use a standard 10-foot-by-25-foot plastic sheet of medium thickness. I put 12-inch rebar in the ground and cut half-inch plastic electrical conduit into 5-foot sections, and bend them over to make hoops. This costs approximately $15 to $25 for each bed.
  • I make an igloo-like cover over my 4-by-4-foot raised beds using PVC and heavy white garden cloth.
  • Agribon 19 on outside hoops, and then a double-layer of agribon 19 on inside hoops. This coming year I plan on adding a layer of polyethylene plastic on the outside hoop over the agribon 19 when temperatures go below 25 degrees. I think I will be able to keep more crops alive then.
  • I use PVC pipes with a double layer of plastic over them.
  • Agribon for things outside. I also have a small greenhouse and can grow most things in there over the winter with no other protection. I have more problems with it getting too warm on sunny days for the cold-loving things.
  • We have raised beds that my husband built wooden-framed greenhouse toppers for. He uses glass windows and/or plastic sheeting secured to the wooden frames.
  • Low PVC frame with plastic attached with spring-loaded clamps. I plant in low raised beds with very well-amended soil.
  • I use two layers: plastic greenhouse covering over the raised beds with Reemay over the bed, too, when temps drop to the mid-20s.
  • I like 6-mil plastic over hoops made of field fencing.
  • We found giant foam cubes at a farm equipment store that they were going to get rid of. We put these around raised beds and covered them with windows and glass doors. Old sleeping bags go over these when there’s a hard frost or snow. We remove the coverings when full sun is out.
  • We use a high tunnel with a low tunnel inside of it.
  • We used cold frames made of plastic decking material, with clear plastic corrugated roofing panels for the lights. We later added a sheet of translucent plastic to the inside to give a second layer.
  • I have a portable quilted greenhouse from Gardeners Supply that has windows in case it gets too warm. And when the dead of winter comes, I cover it with a heavy cover and plastic.
  • I use straw for most things, woven cloth covers for crops such as mustard and leeks, and grow boxes in the greenhouse for lettuces.
  • I grow some things in my greenhouse, which is made of Plexiglas and recycled glass: lettuce, bok choy, scallions, herbs of all kinds. Outside, I use only a frost blanket over the spinach, if I remember. Otherwise, I use my frost blankets in the early spring over peppers and tomatoes if needed.
  • We used 1-inch-thick PVC pipe we bought at a resale shop that supports Habitat for Humanity. Five pipes secured over the top of the raised bed were then covered in translucent plastic sheets. We secured the sheets with large plastic clips, which made it very easy to reposition for weeding, watering and monitoring.
  • I have only planted very cold-weather crops here in southwest Pa., but I’m working on a modified “walpini” this summer, using the back foundation of our old fallen barn along with hay bales and some old windows that were laying around. The roof will probably be cattle panels covered with heavy-duty plastic. The front faces south and that’s the angle the roof will face, so hopefully it will hold heat!
  • Row cover cloth is sufficient for root crops. Greens need hoops or a cold frame.
  • I use raised beds made from the clay blocks of the foundation of a house that burned down. I have high tunnels over some of them, and others I just have portable row covers for. I have one bed that is about 25 feet long that I cover with some old Plexiglas sheeting, to create a hot house.
  • Snow fall! I have much better luck when we have a good blanket of snow. Then I pick during a thaw.
  • I use a 6-mil polyhouse, with bales of straw along the base of the polyhouse on the windy sides (north and west).
  • We have a 14-by-24-foot hoop house. Inside, two beds are covered with low hoops made from concrete reinforcing wire. When gets below freezing, these can be covered with plastic when temps are in the low 20s. I add blankets (purchased from yard sales or Goodwill) if colder, and will even add another tarp on top if needed. More blankets could be added if it’s below zero.
  • I use old recycled storm windows and straw in my beds that I plant in the spring. I keep most of my herbs going through winter this way. I keep rosemary, sage, oregano, chives and parsley going year-round. If I am lucky, I can keep mint, cilantro and basil going until early December.
  • I use a dome tunnel with a light bulb inside.

What other winter growing techniques work best for you to get the biggest, healthiest harvests?

  • If a big freeze is coming, harvest like there’s no tomorrow.
  • I have been gardening for a long time but only just started experimenting with winter gardening, as I recently moved to Klamath Falls. In general, for any season, good rich soil is the key. I use chicken manure as well as organic fertilizer and apply and work into the ground before planting, and then again as the plants start to produce. A close eye on the garden to scope out pests is also critical, especially with organic pesticide techniques, as they work best when applied before an infestation becomes large. I have had problems with aphids under my hoop house, surprisingly, as I thought the colder weather would discourage them. I use Safer Insecticidal soap, which has worked well. I also smash the aphids when I see them.
  • I use cold frames for spinach, lettuce, mizuna, and mâche. All but the mizuna make it the whole winter, although growth slows down to a crawl in the coldest part of the winter.
  • The biggest issue for me is not temperature, but protection from wind.
  • We find that the more we cut and use the kale and spinach, the more they continue to produce. Bonus!
  • I’ve been mounding soil up around the base of my chard in late fall. This seems to help the plant handle the cold winter.
  • Winter-hardy ground cover like clover is a great idea. It doesn’t mind being stepped on repeatedly and it fixes nitrogen. Always cycle nitrogen fixes through each garden spot before putting in heavy feeders. Add some manure and compost tea (even though it smells like armpits!) to liven up the soil. Allow diversity.
  • Get plants growing before the first frost, watch the temperature, and keep out the rabbits.
  • Don’t forget ventilation on sunny days. Sow quick-maturing veggies (lettuce, spinach, etc.) several times.
  • For the times when temperatures are below 25, I fill gallon jugs with water and alcohol, paint them flat black, and allow the liquid to heat by daytime ambient thermal radiation. I place the jugs in my growing lean-to overnight to act as heaters. I also mature several compost piles over the summer and use it with my winter plants.
  • Try a high tunnel for items you want to harvest during winter, and use a low tunnel for things you want to overwinter and harvest in spring or late winter.
  • I plant spinach and carrots before cold weather hits, and in the spring they are ready to eat. I have found carrots are sweeter if they are in the ground through the winter.
  • I plant garlic and potato onions in the fall to overwinter for harvest the next year. These do well without any covering at all. I’ve been using the hardiest varieties I can find, and I try to keep all the plants in good air circulation and dry if it gets to wet.
  • Don’t water too much, as tunnels hold moisture and condensation
  • We use late winter to start seeds in the basement grow-center we have set up. If we start our peppers, tomatoes and cruciferous vegetables the last week of February or first week of March, the seedlings get a good head start to producing much more. For example, we had nine cuttings on our broccoli last year.
  • Lots of compost and mulch. Things don’t grow much, but they do stay alive waiting for some spring warmth. It stays cold here in Eastern Washington in the winter for a long period of time. The ground freezes hard!
  • I like biochar techniques. Mixing charcoal into the soil tends to prevent the soil from freezing solid.
  • I use the “cut and come again” process for most of my lettuces and other hardy greens.
  • Egyptian onions can be harvested year-round and no cover is needed for them. You can use the tops for chives and the bottoms for cooking or salads. Great year-round plant!
  • We start plants from seeds in our basement under grow lights. When plants are big enough, we move them to a small greenhouse or cold frames. You will fail sometimes, but don’t give up!
  • Start with a thick, rich bed of rotted manure. Water well before it gets too cold to open the frames. If needed, water during warm spells mid-winter, as it can get dry.
  • Some of my best harvests are cut-and-come-again greens.
  • Let mâche go to seed in order to make it a winter “weed.”
  • As long as I can get my plants in early enough and keep them covered, mostly to protect from rabbits, I can get lots of great harvests all the way through February.
  • I make sure the crops I plant will get the most sunlight available during the winter days, without any shade. I also make sure there’s protection from the wind and that the covering is weighted down to keep it in place to protect my plants.

What are your best tips for getting the timing right when planning and planting a winter garden?

  • For my cool weather crops, I try to gauge when the really hot weather is over. I try to have spots cleared and amended a few weeks before I want to plant.
  • I shoot for planting the first of September with most plants. The weather does a lot of the dictating as to when the planting is done.
  • Take the soil’s temperature often.
  • Light seems to be the limiting factor for broccoli, so it does best if it gets in in time to form florets. The spring lettuce and arugula reseed themselves, as does the parsley. I have not had to plant any for several years I just let it go wild.
  • Try to remember to get the fall and winter crops in on time while embracing the summer harvest.
  • I don’t worry too much about timing in my area. If it is a cool-weather crop, it will still grow pretty well in this area in winter.
  • I try to watch the temperature. Last September was actually too hot I ended up replanting.
  • I try to base my fall plantings on when the plant would naturally seed itself and, if using starts, planting when the young plants would be up. Planting too early for a fall crop, that you’ll keep going in winter, can be inhibiting due to heat and water stress.
  • Plant in waves. Even try to plant winter hardies like Russian kale mid-winter. They do actually grow sometimes. For the shoestring budget, find discarded scraps of Plexiglas and carefully bend over heat into an A-frame to cover rows during sprouting. Keep these covers on until the final frost, and you’ll have a big head start on the growing season.
  • Count down to your first frost days. Start seeds early enough to get sizeable plants and cover them before hard frost/snow.
  • Have a good idea when the first frost will happen. Make sure your plants have had time to root well and are hardy enough.
  • If planting by seeds, leave time for the seeds to germinate to get a little growth. Seed sowing in early- to mid-September works for me. If planting transplants, go with early October.
  • Try to get most plants up and growing well before we go below 10 hours of daylight. Sometimes it is too hot and I can’t plant in fall.
  • Use a calendar to help remember which tasks to do when.
  • Keep an eye on the weather. If it’s cool, plant early to get a head start. Kale and carrots are good all through the winter here in Kentucky without cover. Everything else needs to be covered. Eat the lettuce first.
  • Use the estimated first date of frost for your area and count back eight to 10 weeks.
  • Wait for periods when weather records suggest that rain is likely.
  • I use a chart from Johnny’s Selected Seeds that tells me my frost dates.
  • We grow all of our cool-weather vegetables in late winter/early spring in a raised bed with a greenhouse topper. I find that if we plant at the end of spring, plants will die from the shock of a really cold night, but if you plant towards the end of winter, the weather will only warm up from there, so the plants are much more tolerant.
  • Don’t be afraid to vary your approach by how the year is going . things that have worked well in one year won’t always work the next.
  • Make sure to plant so that your veggies are at full maturity by October. Add two weeks to the maturity date on each seed packet.
  • Read everything you can on the subject. Start early (late summer) for seeds when growing second crops. Collect all the covers before you start fall and winter gardens. Collect freeze coverings for early spring. Also, expand your taste buds! We are missing a lot of produce we could be growing just because we were not raised on this or that green leaf.
  • Work with Mother Nature, not against her. Don’t use the calendar use the weather.
  • Plant before your first frost, but not too early. If you know you usually have a warm spell later, it will help the plants get well-established before cold sets in.
  • Make sure to build shade covers for plants you have to start in the heat of July or August!
  • Know your weather patterns and use tunnels. I use tunnels and row covers and raised beds with old windows in the spring to get an early start. I also have a greenhouse that I use to grow food all year. Most veggies are easily forced and so are strawberries.
  • Planting depth is key. The soil has to be warm enough to start and support the seeds.
  • Plant late enough to get good germination and early enough to let the plants get big enough before winter.
  • It all depends on our weather, so I try to just play it by ear. We have had Septembers that were still very hot and some where it is the perfect weather for planting.
  • Try several small rows at different times and always document your timing.
  • Plant small amounts, but do it many times, spread out over several weeks. Mother Nature doesn’t follow a calendar, so you have to hedge your bets. And plant winter crops in a bed that you don’t need in early spring. It’s fun to see that the plants will do when the weather warms up. Have you ever seen the blossoms on Red Russian kale? Very striking against the dark leaves, and the bees are very thankful that you allowed the time for it to bloom.
  • We seed endive/escarole in late August.
  • I plant twice: after school starts for the new year and just before Halloween.
  • People may laugh, but I swear by the old Farmers’ Almanac!
  • I plant according to the weather. Cool, rainy days are best for me.
  • Read the package for days to maturity, and then experiment.
  • We have south-facing rock walls with rock rose and we put arugula and baby leaf lettuce mix seeds into it in late September. The rocks keep it protected from freezing. After the frost, we re-seed for early spring harvest.
  • I keep a journal of the different crops I have planted, when I planted them, how they have done, and what type of covering was used to protect them.

Edible Landscaping - The Winter Vegetable Garden in Warm Climates

Lettuce is a widely adapted winter vegetable in most zone 7, 8, and 9 climates. It grows and can be harvested all winter.

You can garden through the winter in almost any climate. Even northern gardeners can enjoy harvests of root crops and greens in the winter if they are willing to put in the effort to protect plants with cloches, cold frames, or hoop houses. However, gardeners in mild winter areas, such as coastal California, Oregon and Washington Arizona Texas and Florida, can really bask in fall and winter's glory. While gardeners in cool summer areas, such as coastal Northern California, Oregon and Washington, look to extend and protect fall planted veggies through the damp, cool weather of winter, gardeners in southern Arizona, the Gulf Coast, Texas, and Florida are loving the cool temperatures to sow and grow a variety of vegetables that don't survive the heat of summer. In some areas, such as southern Florida and Texas, they are even growing warm season crops of tomatoes in winter, but that's a topic for another article.

In this article, I'd like to focus on the crops and techniques you can use to grow a winter garden in hardiness zones 7, 8, and 9. If you're gardening in a colder climate, check out these stories I wrote on a Fall Greens Garden and Season Extenders to enjoy fresh produce in your garden this winter. In the mild winter areas, temperatures rarely get much below freezing for very long in winter, although sometimes temperatures can dip into the teens. There's still time to plant many cool weather loving crops in most of these regions.

Why Plant a Winter Garden?

There are many reasons to plant a winter garden in these areas. Often, it's the only time to really be able to get cool season crops such as broccoli, spinach, lettuce, and carrots to grow properly. Plus, there's less work involved.

October is a great time to plant in these mild areas because the heat of summer has passed, but the soil is still warm. The days are shorter, the sun's intensity less, and there are fewer insects and diseases around to attack your plants. This allows cool weather seedlings and transplants the luxury of growing slow and strong to maturity. For the gardener, there's less weeding, watering and care involved and more comfortable weather to work in. Weeds will germinate, but they will not grow strongly during the short days and are easy to remove. Moisture holds in the soil longer in fall so the garden requires less watering. There's time to harvest plants as needed, knowing they will hold in the garden longer than if growing under high heat conditions.

Preparing the Winter Garden

Start your winter garden by turning the soil, removing perennial weeds and grasses, and amending it with compost. While winter rains are welcome in most mild winter areas, in cool damp winter areas such as Seattle, cool rains can mean plants rotting. Consider growing plants in raised beds. This will keep the soil well drained and help avoid water logging. Amend the soil before planting and add an organic fertilizer at or just after planting time. That's usually enough to carry your plants through the winter.

Colorful carrot varieties can be sown in fall in zones 8 and 9 for a winter harvest. Choose varieties adapted to winter growing.

Peas make a great fall crop. Snow peas are easier to grow than English peas because you don't have to wait for them to fill out to eat.

Winter is cool season crop time. Greens, such as arugula, spinach, collards, lettuce, Swiss chard, mustard and kale, thrive. Root crops, such as carrots, beets, onions and radishes, grow well. Brassicas, such as broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage, form large heads. Legumes, such as fava beans and peas, grow and flourish. All these cool loving vegetables have better flavor and texture than if you tried to grow them during the heat of spring or summer.

Which crops to grow and the timing of planting in your specific area will depend on your location. In zone 7 gardens and the Pacific Northwest, greens are probably the best bet for an October planting. In zones 8 and 9, you have a broad palette of cool season crop options. Look for varieties adapted to your region and for winter planting (check out the resources listed at the end of this article). For example, 'Winter Keeper' beet, January King' cabbage and 'Royal Chantenay' carrots are some varieties adapted to winter growing conditions.

In most of these areas winter means regular rainfall, so watering is usually not an issue. Unless you're in the Pacific Northwest, it's still a good idea to mulch your plantings to preserve the soil moisture and keep the weeds away. In the Pacific Northwest, the abundant winter rains combined with consistently cool temperatures can lead to rot, slugs and snails. Mulching just makes it worse.

While most pests are not active in winter, cabbage worms and slugs are two that never seem to rest. Watch for cabbageworm droppings on your Brassica plants and spray Bt to control them at the first sign of their activity. Slugs and snails are a particular problem in cool areas. Protect raised beds with copper flashing. Slugs and snails don't like touching copper. Add iron phosphate baits, such as Sluggo, around plants. Consider covering plants with a floating row cover tucked tightly into the soil to prevent the snails and slugs from entering the bed. Row covers have another benefit.

For gardeners concerned about freezing temperatures, the row cover can protect plants into the low 20 degrees F, while allowing light, rain and air to the plants

Harvest crops as needed. While many vegetables are picked and finished, such as cabbage, cauliflower, carrots and beets, some keep producing in winter. Many greens, such has spinach, lettuce and mesclun mix, can be cut a number of times to the ground and allowed to regrow in winter. As long as the temperatures stay cool, they will not bolt. Broccoli heads will continue to send out side shoots, and peas and fava beans will continue to flower and fruit. Even if they go into a holding pattern during December and January, they will quickly start growing and producing again when the longer days arrive in February.

So with some planning and proper maintenance you can enjoy a winter garden that provides fresh produce to your family right through the dark days until spring.

Other Stories on Winter Gardening in Warmer Climates:

Charlie Nardozzi is an award winning, nationally recognized garden writer, speaker, radio, and television personality. He has worked for more than 30 years bringing expert gardening information to home gardeners through radio, television, talks, tours, on-line, and the printed page. Charlie delights in making gardening information simple, easy, fun and accessible to everyone. He's the author of 6 books, has three radio shows in New England and a TV show. He leads Garden Tours around the world and consults with organizations and companies about gardening programs. See more about him at Gardening With Charlie.

Watch the video: 9 Of The Fastest Growing Veggies You Can Harvest In No Time

Previous Article

Blue is one of the best potatoes

Next Article

Tree Stonecrop