Streptocarpus: growing from seeds, reproduction, transplantation, species, photo

Houseplants Published: January 31, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

Botanical description

Streptocarpus (Latin Streptocarpus) belongs to the Gesneriev family and has over 130 species. Habitat - Africa and Asia. Depending on the type of plant, its representatives are both perennial and annual, both herbaceous plants and shrubs. Indoor conditions have been grown since the first half of the 19th century.
Streptocarpus is a rosette plant. The stem is short. The leaves are broadly lanceolate, strongly pubescent; the color of the leaves is either just green or variegated. The flowers grow one at a time or in pairs from the leaf axils. Streptocarpus got its name because of its fruits, which are shaped like a long spiral box.
The plant blooms from spring to autumn. In winter, the plant has a short dormant period, but the plant does not shed its leaves.

Briefly about growing

  • Bloom: from spring to autumn.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light.
  • Temperature: from spring to autumn - no lower than 20 ºC and no higher than 25 ºC, and from October the temperature is gradually reduced to 15 ºC.
  • Watering: during the growing season - regular and moderate, from October watering is reduced, and in winter the earthy clod is moistened so that it does not dry out completely.
  • Air humidity: moderate.
  • Top dressing: during the period of active growth - every week with a complex mineral fertilizer.
  • Rest period: from early October to February.
  • Transfer: in early spring: young plants - annually, adults - once every 3-4 years.
  • Substrate: soil for Saintpaulias. Or: 3 parts of sod land, 2 parts of leaf and 1 part of humus and sand. For young streptocarpus, sod land should be replaced with leafy one.
  • Reproduction: division, seeds and leafy cuttings.
  • Pests: scale insects, thrips, whiteflies, mealybugs and spider mites.
  • Diseases: gray rot.

Read more about growing streptocarpus below.

Photo streptocarpus

Home care for streptocarpus


The optimal location for streptocarpus at home is windows on the east or west side - the plant prefers bright, but diffused light. On the south side, direct sunlight must be scattered, and on the north side, there will be little light for normal growth and flowering.


In the spring-autumn period, the temperature should not fall below 20 ° C, but also should not exceed 25 ° C. Starting in October, the temperature is gradually reduced and stopped at a level not lower than 15 ° C, at which streptocarpus should hibernate.

Watering streptocarpus

From spring to autumn, indoor streptocarpus is provided with regular moderate watering, without bringing the earthen lump to prolonged drying out. Starting in October, they water less, and in winter they water it very carefully so as not to flood the plant. Before watering, water should be allowed to stand for a day, and the water temperature should be room temperature.


With low humidity in the room, the tips of the leaves of the streptocarpus plant can dry out - they need to be cut, but only with a very sharp knife, placing a board under the sheet.

Top dressing

Streptocarpus is fed with complex mineral fertilizers during the growing season 3-4 times a month.

Streptocarpus transplant

Young plants should be replanted annually, while older plants should be replanted every 3-4 years. Streptocarpus should be transplanted in early spring in low wide pots with a substrate of one part of sand, two parts of light turf soil and four parts of leaf. Another version of the soil mixture is 3 hours of sod land, 2 parts of deciduous and 1 part of sand and humus. Ready-made mixtures for Saintpaulias are also suitable. In order for the soil not to be excessively moistened, fine charcoal must be added to it. You should not add sod land when transplanting young specimens of streptocarpus.

Reproduction by division

The soil is slightly moistened, after which the streptocarpus grown in room conditions is removed from the soil and part of the thick root, along with the leaves, is cut off. The cut site should dry out, after which it should be sprinkled with finely crushed charcoal. The pot needs to be filled two-thirds with fresh soil, put a cut rosette and add the substrate to the level of the root collar, then lightly tamp and water the ground with warm water. In order for a young home streptocarpus to take root better, it must be covered with cellophane. It is necessary to shorten the large leaves in half or remove them altogether - this will promote the growth of young leaves and faster rooting. Indoor streptocarpus will bloom pretty soon.

Growing from seeds

Streptocarpus seeds are sown over the soil in a small container, and then covered with glass. Water the seeds through the container pan. The container should be regularly ventilated, the lighting should be bright, but without direct rays, and the temperature should be kept at 21 ° C. To keep the temperature at the right level, you can put a sheet of paper on top of the glass, but in any case, it is better to grow seeds under lamps, and not on a windowsill. After a month and a half, the glass is moved a little, and then removed completely. For the first time, streptocarpus seedlings dive into a slightly larger container, and they are seated a little further from each other. In order not to damage the plant when picking, the container with the seedlings must be tapped slightly, then pry the seedling with a needle, and, supporting the leaves with your fingers, move to a new place. Lightly compact the soil, water and put the pallet in a warm place, covering it with cellophane or plastic wrap. The second time I dive into separate pots. It will not be superfluous to feed the seedlings. Streptocarpus flower seeds can be sown all year round, which will allow different specimens to bloom at different times.

Reproduction of streptocarpus by cuttings

A young developed leaf of streptocarpus (not affected by pests and without signs of disease) is separated from the plant and the petiole is cut with a sharp blade. The cut site must be dried and planted vertically in a small pot, then treated with a fungicide, covered with cellophane wrap and placed in a warm, bright place. In a month and a half, seedlings will appear. They are transplanted into a new pot after the seedling has more or less grown up. When growing several species at once, it is advisable to place labels with the name of the varieties.

When propagated by parts of a leaf, it is placed with its upper side on a board and cut into pieces 5 cm wide with a sharp blade. The leaf is cut perpendicular to the central vein. The finished parts of the streptocarpus leaf (all but the uppermost and lowermost) are planted at an angle of 45 ° C into the grooves with the base of the cutting down. The distance between the cuttings should be at least 3 cm. The container is treated with a fungicide, covered with a plastic bag and placed in a humid place with a temperature of 20-22 ° C. Water the cuttings through a pallet and ventilate every day. The seedlings will sprout in one and a half to two months.

You can propagate streptocarpus at home with the longitudinal parts of the leaf - the leaf is placed on the board upside down and the central vein is cut out with a blade. Places of cuts of the obtained two parts of the leaf are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and planted in grooves with a cut vertically downward to a third of the height of the leaf petiole, the soil is lightly tamped, watered and covered with cellophane. The container with cuttings is placed in a warm and bright place. Seedlings will appear along the entire surface of the leaf from the lateral veins.

On the lower side of the leaf on the central vein, 2-centimeter cuts are made every couple of centimeters, after which the leaf is pinned to the moistened soil with the lower side and treated with a fungicide. The container is covered with glass and kept in a bright place without direct sunlight. When the children appear, the glass is slightly shifted. After planting young plants in separate pots, the first few days they need to be covered with a plastic bag, and when the bag is removed, then young streptocarpus are usually looked after.

Diseases and pests of streptocarpus

Gray rot on streptocarpus. Streptocarpus can develop gray rot if watering is too abundant.

Streptocarpus buds turn brown. The buds turn brown if the air temperature is very high.

The edges of the leaves of streptocarpus turn brown. Dry air or moisture in the soil will cause the leaf edges to turn brown.

Streptocarpus pests. The main pests of streptocarpus are scale insects, thrips, whiteflies, spider mites, mealybugs.


Snow White Streptocarpus / Streptocarpus candidus

The representative of the species is rosette plants. The leaves grow up to 45 cm in length and 15 in width, the texture is wrinkled. The flowers are white with yellow stripes; pharynx with purple dots, purple lines on the lower lip; there are a lot of flowers, they grow up to 2.5 cm in length.

Streptocarpus large / Streptocarpus grandis

This species has only one leaf, which reaches 40 cm in length and 30 in width. The stem grows up to 0.5 m, and at the top, flowers with a light purple corolla color and a darker pharynx gather in racemose inflorescences, the lower lip is white.

Streptocarpus cornflower blue / Streptocarpus cyaneus

The species is represented by a rosette plant. The stems grow up to 15 cm. The pink flowers grow in twos on the stem, the middle of the flower is yellow, and the throat is decorated with dots and stripes of purple.

Wendland Streptocarpus / Streptocarpus wendlandii

In nature, this species lives in South Africa. The plant has only one leaf, dark green in color with lighter veins - it grows to almost 1 m in length and a little more than 0.5 m in width. The peduncle is rather long, 5-centimeter flowers grow from its sinuses, the corolla is dark purple in color, and the pharynx is covered with white stripes.

Streptocarpus glandulosissimus / Streptocarpus glandulosissimus

This species grows in the Uzambar and Ulugur mountains. The stem grows up to 15 cm in length. The color of the flowers ranges from purple to dark blue.

Streptocarpus johannis / Streptocarpus johannis

It is a rosette plant with a straight stem. Leaves up to 0.5 m long and up to 10 cm wide. Up to three dozen almost 2-centimeter flowers grow on the stem; the flowers are lilac-blue.

King's Streptocarpus / Streptocarpus rexii

The habitat of this rosette plant is South Africa. The leaves are pubescent, elongated-lanceolate - up to 25 cm long and up to 5 cm wide. Axillary flowers grow singly or in pairs, the funnel-shaped corolla reaches 5 cm in length and half in diameter; the flower is light lavender, and the corolla tube and throat are covered with purple stripes. This species blooms for a very long time and richly.

Streptocarpus primrose / Streptocarpus polyanthus

This univalent species is native to South Africa. The leaf is rather densely pubescent, reaching a length of up to 30 cm. On high peduncles, 4-centimeter bluish flowers with a yellow central part grow. The pharynx is lighter, somewhat reminiscent of a keyhole.

Streptocarpus primulifolia / Streptocarpus primulifolius

This rosette species grows up to 4 flowers. The color of the streaked and dotted flowers ranges from light purple to white. The stem reaches a height of up to a quarter of a meter.

Rocky Streptocarpus / Streptocarpus saxorum

Grows at an altitude of over 1 km in the mountains of tropical zones in eastern Africa. The stems reach 0.5 m in length and hang down. The leaves are fleshy and small, reaching 3 cm in length and elliptical in shape. Peduncles grow from leaf sinuses and grow up to 7.5 cm. The edges of the flowers are light purple in color, and the flower itself and the pharynx are white.

Stem Streptocarpus / Streptocarpus caulescens

The stem is straight, slightly more than 0.5 m in height. Leaves grow oppositely on the stem. The flowers are similar to the flowers of Saintpaulia - slightly inclined downward, of a light blue hue.

Streptocarpus Holst / Streptocarpus holstii

In nature, it grows in tropical areas in eastern Africa. The fleshy stems reach almost 0.5 m in height and are very flexible. The pubescent leaves are located oppositely on the stem, have a wrinkled texture and grow up to 5 cm in length. Three-centimeter flowers are painted purple, and the corolla tube is white.


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Gesneriaceae
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Plants on C Gesneria

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Fieldfare (Latin Sorbaria)

Fieldfare is a deciduous shrub that grows up to 3 meters in height. They give abundant root suckers, forming dense thickets. It is necessary for growth so that the root collar of the bush does not rise above the ground, it should be deepened by 3-5 cm.

Peony (lat.Paeonia) is a representative of herbaceous perennials of the Peony family. The culture is decorative, used to decorate the garden. Growing peonies in the country and in the garden is popular, since caring for them is not difficult, and some varieties of shrubs can delight you up to 50 years.

Popular species and varieties

The Aster botanical genus includes the Eurasian and American species. Due to significant genetic differences, North American species are botanically excluded from their own genera and are no longer classified as asters. In particular, American aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and shrub (Symphyotrichum dumosum), which are now part of the genus Symfiotrichum. Astra gold, Chinese and many others also changed their ancestral affiliation.


This is one of the most famous fall flowers. The shrub aster, according to new taxonomic characters, has been transferred to another genus, and at present its correct name is Symphyotrichum dumosum.

A perennial herb with a compact spherical shape and narrow-lanceolate leaves 3-10 cm long. It grows, depending on the variety, up to 20-50 cm. Thick, rigid stems are divided into several branches, and those are still divided into other branches. Flowers appear on their top. The plant blooms very profusely. It has characteristic, chamomile inflorescences, in which tubular flowers form an inner "ear", and the outer ones are located radially around it.

Cultivars vary in color and flower size. The species most often forms white or purple inflorescences, sometimes very small, sometimes reaching 6-7 cm in diameter.

Application: in the foreground of flower beds, for groups on lawns, in containers. Looks especially beautiful in large groups. Grows easily, making the plant excellent for filling gaps between stones. Higher varieties are suitable for the cut flower. Honey plant.

  • Blue-violet flowers: "Blue lagoon" Blue lagune, "Little Carlo" Little Carlo.
  • Flowers pink-purple: "Autumn Greetings" by Herbstgruss von Bresserhof.
  • Pink flowers: Jenny, Cassel Marjorie, Pink Star.

New English

New England aster (Aster novae-angliae) is a tall perennial plant with tough, erect stems, which are planted with rough, grayish leaves. Grows up to 200 cm in height! Forms dense bushes. Blooms from August to October. Flowers with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm. Application: solar flower beds, park and garden groups. Due to the drying out of the lower leaves, it is not recommended to plant one by one, preferably behind low plants. Honey plant. Not suitable for cut flower, flower baskets are closed after cutting.

  • Flowers blue-violet: "Lady in blue" Lady in Blue.
  • Flowers pink-purple: Harrington's Pink, Harrington's Pink, Purple Data Purple Data.
  • Pink flowers: "Paul Gerber" Paul Gerber, "Quinten Matsis" Quinten Matsys.
  • Carmine flowers: "In memory of Paul Gerber" Andenken an Paul Gerber, "September Ruby" September rubin.

New Belgian

Strongly growing species - Aster novi-belgii (Aster novi-belgii) reaches a height of 40-160 cm. It has hard erect shoots, branched in the upper part. Flowers with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm in various colors (depending on the variety). Flowering period: August-October. Application: for sun beds, borders, hedges, cut flowers, honey plants.

  • Blue-violet flowers: "Daurblau" Dauerblau, "Plenty" Plenty, "Sean von Detlikon" Schoene von Dietlikon.
  • Pink-violet flowers: Eventide "Eventide".
  • Pink Flowers: Fellowship Fellowship.
  • White flowers: Weisser Elephant, White Ladies.
  • Carmine red flowers: Royal Ruby, Winston Churchil Winston Churchil.


Aster heather (Aster ericoides) - a plant with highly branched shoots and leaves, narrow like needles. Blooms white, blue, pink, from October until frost.

Narrow-leaved saltwort

Astra sedum or narrow-leaved solonetnik (Aster sedifolius) is a low, herbaceous perennial up to 35 cm tall. The twigs are covered with narrow leaves that form spectacular pads. It blooms in bright purple.


Aster chamomile or steppe (Aster amellus) is a plant of medium height, growing to about 40-80 cm. Originally from Central Europe, it is also found in the western regions of Asia. Blooms from mid-July to late October, flowers can be white, pink, red, purple or blue in various shades. Its varieties are suitable for cut flowers and can be planted in perennial beds.


Aster false or alpine (Aster alpinus) - low (20-40 cm) shrubs that are ideal for planting in rock gardens. In nature, they can be found on the southern, warm, sunny slopes of the mountains. Bloom before all asters - blue, purple, pink or white flowers appear in May-June. Alpine asters are easy to grow and are completely frost resistant. Plants are found naturally in rocky crevices, on rocky ledges, at the foot of the mountains. They are ideal for planting on rocky rocks, rock gardens.

These perennials have thick, pubescent stems. The green leaves are heavily pubescent, lanceolate. They bloom very profusely.

The most popular varieties of the alpine species include:

  • "Albus" Albus - with white flowers.
  • Dunkle Schöne Dankle Schöne - with purple flowers.
  • "Goliath" Goliaf - with blue flowers.
  • Happy End Happy End - with light pink flowers.
  • Pinkie Pinkie - pink flowers.
  • "Trimix" Trimix is ​​a low variety, reaches 20 cm in height, has tricolor flowers of white, pink, blue color.

Problems when growing streptocarpus, pests, diseases

Cultivation of Cape primrose can be accompanied by a number of problems, the appearance of which negatively affects its condition.

Manifestation The reasons Remedies
Withering Lack of moisture. Timely watering.
Yellow and falling leaves Lack of nutrients. Feeding with complex fertilizers.
No blooming, pale color and reduced size Lack of light, inappropriate conditions. Providing correct lighting, temperature, change of location.
Cramped pot. Transplant with division of the rhizome.
Abundant watering. Reducing the frequency of watering, you need to let the earth dry out.
Drying of the tips of leaves and buds Dry air. Spraying water around the flower.
There is not enough room in the pot. Transfer.
Rusty coating Strong watering. More rare watering.
Excessive concentration of nutrients. Planting in a peat environment, feeding every 2 weeks.
Small leaves instead of flowers Lack of light. Improved lighting, up to 14 hours a day.
Black petioles Much moisture and cool. Warm place, less watering, you need to dry the ground.
Blurry yellow or colorless spots Burn after direct sunlight. Remove from the sunny side, rearrange to windows with diffused light.

It is important to know about the main pathogens that cause certain diseases of streptocarpus. Understanding the cause of the disease will help in its further treatment and restoration of the flower.

Disease / pest Manifestation Remedies
Root rot Fungal brown spots on the leaves, black slimy roots. Remove from the container, wash the roots and cut off the blackened parts. Soak the remaining plant in 0.25 g of manganese per liter of liquid. Plant in a container with a new substrate. Water for 4 months with a solution of 0.5% Skor, Bayleton, Maxim.
Gray rot Light brown, fluffy spots, overgrown with light gray bloom. They arise in damp and cool conditions. Remove damaged parts, sprinkle the sections with charcoal, chalk or cinnamon powder. Drizzle with diluted 0.2% Fundazol, Topsin-M. If there is no result, treat with Horus, Teldor 2-3 times (according to the instructions).
Powdery mildew Whitish spots on leaves, flowers and stems. Wash off plaque with a brush soaked in soda solution, cut off too disfigured areas, sprinkle with wood ash. Sprinkle the earth with Benlat, Fundazol. You can repeat it after a week, and then add a weak manganese solution up to 3 weeks.
Thrips Silvery lines on the seamy side of the sheet, light spots and small black sticks. Remove all corollas and infected leaves. Wipe the rest and spray the soil with Aktara, Spintor, Karate, and another 2-3 times a week later. Wrap in polyethylene for a couple of days, airing.
Spider mite Almost transparent cobwebs, on the seamy side there are spots of them. Water well and leave for a couple of days under polyethylene next to a container with chopped onions, garlic or turpentine. If it does not help, treat 3-4 times with Fitoverm, Apollo, Omayt, changing the preparations.
Shield Spots of different tones of brown along the veins on the seamy side of the leaf plate. Increase and redden over time. Lubricate each build-up with oil, acetic acid, kerosene, and after a few hours remove insects. Apply onion gruel to the affected areas. Every week, water the soil a couple of times with a solution of Admiral, Fufanon, Permethrin.
Whitefly It looks like a small moth, lives on the wrong side of the sheet and takes off when touched. Use duct tape, insect fumigator. Replace the top couple of centimeters of the substrate. Spray the ground with infusion of pepper, tobacco or mustard. Or take Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Bankol.
Aphid Small green insects, sticky bloom on the plant and deformation of its individual parts. Clean aphids from surfaces with a brush or cotton wool. Put dried orange peels and herbs on the ground. Or use Biotlin, Fury, Iskra-Bio.
Weevil Wingless small beetles of black color, gnaw at the leaves starting from the edges. Carry out the treatment with Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktellik or another insecticidal preparation, and repeat after a week.

Thus, at the first signs of a disease, it is worth carefully examining the plant for pests. If there are any, it is worth isolating the diseased streptocarpus from uninfected flowers. For prophylaxis, it is allowed to process them with Fitoverm, following the instructions of the instructions.

Pittosporum transplant and substrate

Smolens are transplanted regularly and often. Until the age of four, plants are transplanted annually, in early spring, after 4 years - every two years, changing the top layer of the substrate in containers every year, when no transplant is carried out. If the plant does not need to be transplanted, the roots have not yet fully mastered the entire substrate, then it is better to transplant as rarely as possible. Resin seedlings react painfully to the procedure for changing the capacity, adaptation lasts a long time.

Pittosporum does not like peat and its content in the substrate should be minimal. A universal soil mixture is quite suitable for a plant. The optimum soil response is pH 5.5 to 6.0. If the substrate is mixed independently, then for pittosporum it is better to use one of the light earth mixtures:

  1. a mixture of sand, humus, turf, deciduous soil and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 4: 2: 1/2
  2. a mixture of equal parts of sand, turf and leafy soil.

For pittosporum, only one transplantation method is permissible - transshipment with complete preservation of the earthen coma. Contact with roots can kill the plant. A high drainage layer must be laid on the bottom of the new container. After transplanting, the plant should be placed in a mild, controlled environment with high humidity.

Carpathian bell flower care

Carpathian bells are very unpretentious in care. The gardener helps the first-year campanula through the first season and overwinter. Further, the plant requires a minimum of attention.


Regular moderate watering only during rooting and the beginning of active growth in a new place. In summer, the Carpathian bells endure heat and drought. By periodically supplying water during such periods, summer residents help the bells in a stressful situation. If the weather is warm, it rains from time to time, watering is stopped.

Important! According to observations, bushes falling to one side experience the severity of waterlogging.

Top dressing

Carpathian bells are fed three times a season:

  1. In early spring. To stimulate the growth of shoots, the flowers are fed simultaneously with other crops with nitrogen preparations.
  2. By the beginning of the formation of buds, a mineral complex for flowering or a phosphorus-potassium mixture is introduced.
  3. When the flowers wither one after another by the end of summer, and seeds ripen in the fruit pods, the bushes are fed with autumn fertilizer or the same complex for flowers.

From a rich assortment of dressings, they choose mineral or ready-made ones based on organic matter.

Trimming, pinching

Shaping procedures are not needed for Carpathian bells. They will form a uniform flowering cover without human intervention. But, wanting to give the bush a larger volume and achieve the maximum density of flowering, flower growers pinch the tops of the shoots before the first buds appear. Campanula will bloom later, but the decorative effect will be brighter.

Pruning of the aboveground part is practiced only by those gardeners who have no time to remove wilted shoots in the spring in order to tidy up the flower bed.

Loosening, mulching

These activities are useful for young bushes or at the beginning of the season when weeds are more active than cultivated plants. Having ripped out unnecessary shoots, they slightly loosen the soil around the Carpathian bells, and then mulch it with compost.

Sawdust, popular for mulch, can also be used if they have already been overcooked or soaked in urea. Otherwise, the material will pull nitrogen, which is so necessary for growth, out of the ground.

They also try not to cover the soil around Campanula carpatica with peat, since such mulch is used where they are fighting to increase acidity. A neutral coconut crumb would be appropriate.


If the Carpathian bells grow in close proximity on a complex flower bed, multi-tiered mixboards, then along with other ornamental crops, plantings are renewed with a period of no more than 5 years.

Flowers planted in a free solo position - blue, white islands on a green lawn, a lawn - do not need periodic renewal. The grower controls the growth and density of the planting.

Watch the video: The Complete Streptocarpus - care, propagation, hybridising history u0026 modern varieties

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