4 reasons for the death of garden plants in winter


Many summer residents have such cases that the culture planted in the fall unexpectedly dies in the spring. It is necessary to find out in time why the plants disappear in the personal plot. This will help to take preventive measures in time.

Bulging plants

Bulging of horticultural crops occurs in late autumn or early spring. It occurs with very late planted plants that have not been able to develop a root system. The main reason for this phenomenon is the large temperature difference. The top layer of the soil freezes, and the liquid in it expands, which leads to the expulsion of the seedlings by the ice crust. When the temperature rises, the horticultural crop stays above the soil level. To prevent bulging, it is worth planting seedlings in early fall or spring. Then their root system will have time to get stronger. When a garden crop is subjected to hilling, it is necessary to make a winter shelter and sprinkle it with a small layer of soil. It is necessary to constantly work on the structure of the earth, because the total amount of impurities determines how much the plant will be susceptible to bulging. Experts recommend planting seedlings at an angle and as deep as possible.

Freezing of plants

Freezing is the death of horticultural crops from low temperatures. Heat-loving varieties are most susceptible to it. First, the upper stems die off, and the root system remains viable. Quite often, seedlings that are devoid of snow cover suffer. To prevent freezing, it is necessary to plant winter-hardy and climate-adapted plants. The vertical wooden shields mounted at the summer cottage help well, allowing for the retention of snow. In winter, it is worth covering the beds with a small layer of peat or spruce branches.

Soaking plants

Soaking occurs when the snow cover melts in early spring and damages the root system of the seedlings. Its main factor is the level of groundwater. The most unfavorable conditions for a plant are considered to be a large amount of moisture in the ground and a high ambient temperature. It is quite difficult to avoid getting wet. On clay soil, it is worth making a special structure for the quick drainage of melt water so that they cannot stagnate on the site. It is better to plant bulbous plants in higher elevations or raise the level of the beds on your own.

Damping off plants

Damping destroys garden crops when the summer resident covered them incorrectly or did not have time to remove the shelter in time when the temperature rises. The main reason for this is that the seedlings find themselves in an environment without oxygen and suffocate. Damping off affects plants that are covered for the winter with materials that quickly rot or cake. For these purposes, it is worth using spruce branches, white polymer fabric and synthetic materials. It is necessary to carefully monitor the areas covered with plastic wrap with the onset of heat. During this period, the temperature under such material increases greatly, and the seedlings can dry out. To avoid this, you need to constantly ventilate the shelters in early spring, opening them from the sides. The use of preventive measures and specialized means cannot guarantee the protection of the plant. Very often summer residents notice damage too late, when it is no longer possible to save the seedlings. For this reason, it is necessary to take care of the successful development of horticultural crops in advance, using simple expert advice.


Why do cucumbers die in a greenhouse

A common problem for many summer residents is the partial or even complete death of the cucumber crop. Therefore, the question of why cucumbers die in the greenhouse and how to prevent this is still relevant. Growing perfectly well-groomed crops that will yield 100% of the harvest is a problematic task to complete. Cucumbers are a delicate crop that is susceptible to external factors, so newcomers have a lot of trouble with it.


At what distance from each other to plant apple trees and pears. Distance between apple trees and other trees

On small plots of land, gardeners often resort to tricks, mixing plantings of fruit trees, planting various shrubs on them. But often this event ends in failure: the plants die, they give little harvest.

Important! Most horticultural crops do not tolerate being close to an apple tree. But making too large gaps between plantings is also irrational. Consider what distance should be from the apple tree to other fruit trees.

From a tall apple tree to a vigorous pear, about 9 meters should be left. If the pear is undersized, a distance of 4 meters is allowed.

The smallest distance between the plum and the apple tree is 6 meters. When grown next to a dwarf apple plum - 4.5 meters.


Reason 2. The root system of the seedling destroyed before planting

Trees with an open root system can be found both in street sales and in shopping centers. It makes no sense to buy such seedlings - after 6 hours the roots will begin to dry out, and the survival rate will drop sharply. Another thing is seedlings with roots in a clay mash, they can be stored for 3-4 days.

If for some reason you still bought a seedling with an open root system, immediately go to the site, immerse it in a barrel of water for several hours, and prepare the planting pit yourself and hurry up with planting. Can't plant a plant on the same day? Moisten the roots, wrap them in wet burlap and plastic on top.

In the case of an autumn planting, immediately upon purchase, remove all the leaves from the tree so that it does not have to spend moisture on them.


Thuja are constantly dying, advise what to do

#1

#2

In my opinion, you should go to a normal nursery and choose younger plants.
After all, thuja grow fast enough ..

You can ask the nursery workers to plant them themselves with a replacement guarantee, at a price it will be 20-30% more expensive,
but in your case this is also an option.

For example, I planted about 30 thujas of different breeds and in different ways, only one did not start ..

#3

Post has been edited by Mami: 09/23/2010, 9:47:08 PM

#4

In my opinion, you should go to a normal nursery and choose younger plants.
After all, thuja grow fast enough ..

You can ask the nursery workers to plant them themselves with a replacement guarantee, at a price it will be 20-30% more expensive,
but in your case this is also an option.

For example, I planted about 30 thujas of different breeds and in different ways, only one did not start ..

#5

took in the nursery in the direction of Talgar, before reaching the 'quiet backwater'. The nursery seems to be large and the material is not imported, as they say. Advise that there is a normal nursery and how to get there. And then, the question is not in the nursery, I think so, but in principle in the capriciousness of the thuja for our region. For half a year, the trees stand and nothing, if the material was bad, I think in the summer in the heat it would dry out in a month. Here the problem is something else, but what is still a mystery. Specialists help with advice. There is a chance to save a couple more thujas, the current began to turn yellow after the March planting

It’s a pity for your tuikas! And it's very strange that they all dry out. In principle, it is in our region that they feel great. True, it depends on the variety. There are non-zoned ones, which, even with super-care, bend. But you kind of zoned. What variety did you buy?
The adapted ones do not seem capricious to me, I planted a lot of them and there were no particular problems. The only thing is that, especially in mountainous areas, they are very susceptible to sunburn. And they suffer greatly from dogs and cats who like to "mark" trees. Tui do not tolerate this at all, the needles die off in these places.
If the plants have brown blobs, then most likely it is a scale insect. I had such an attack on Tui-Brabant. Getting rid of it is not easy, but it can be done. There is a lot of information on this topic in the internet.
And there is also a suspicion that the roots were damaged during digging or during planting. Even if the nursery is large and reliable, it is better to be personally present when digging trees, especially if they are large-sized ones. Workers often dig terribly carelessly, and the tree seems to have a large lump, and with shovels they manage to cut off the most important roots. And when landing, it is also better to check everything (pit size, soil, etc.).
Of course, less high planting material takes root better, but now there are so many technologies and preparations that a problem-free planting of large-sized plants is also possible. True, for 2-3 years they will still not look very good, while they take root. But they really shouldn't dry out!
If you cannot call a dendrologist, then try to "investigate" this case yourself. If there is already a dead tree, excavate the planting hole, check the condition of the roots and if they are at all. Take a photo of these plaques and place them here. Maybe someone will recognize what it is.
I wish your thuyas a speedy recovery!

#6


Insufficient lighting can often be the cause of the yellowing of the leaves.

Most plants prefer a place with sufficient moisture and bright light. Sometimes an orchid can germinate in low light conditions for 1-2 years, and only then begin to wither, shedding leaves.

Orchids with hard and dense leaves are usually photophilous. These are practically all Cattleya, Laelias and hybrids based on these species. Also, the light-loving group includes such orchids as Vanda, Ascocenda, Ascocentrum, Rhynchostilis, Angrecum, which have leathery leaves.

Orchids with soft, light green leaves easily turn yellow or burn in bright sun, so they need more shading. Miltoniopsis is a good example. Terrestrial shade-tolerant species that prefer partial shade include: slippers and papiopedilums, which most often have a mottled pattern on the leaves.

Yellowing of the leaves is often accompanied by the appearance of roughness. The reason for this behavior is the prolonged exposure of the orchid to too bright sun, which is why its leaves become very hot and their tissues begin to deteriorate.


In many ways, it is determined by hereditary factors. Here is an illustrative historical example. High winter hardy apple variety Cinnamon striped well endured the winter of 1940 near Moscow at -42 ° C. Varieties derived from it Lighthouse and Autumn joy in the winter of 1978–1979 they survived at –41.5 ° С, and hybrid seedlings of these varieties (Mayak x Golden Delicious) in 2005 withstood artificial freezing to –40 ° С. That is, the level of winter hardiness has not decreased for 60 years and passes from generation to generation.


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