Rhapis: cultivation, care and how to make it bloom


HOW TO GROW AND CARE FOR OUR PLANTS

RHAPIS


Rhapis excelsa

In this genre we find again the ladies of the palms as they are splendid palm trees, very widespread thanks to their simplicity of cultivation and their beauty that make them truly unique and almost always present in all homes.

BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION

Kingdom

:

Plantae

Clado

: Angiosperms

Clado

: Monocotyledons

Clado

: Commelinoids

Order

:

Arecales

Family

:

Arecaceae

Kind

:

Rhapis

Species

: see paragraph: "Main species"

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

The genre Rhapis belongs to family of Arecaceaeand includes plants native to Asia, especially China and Japan.

These are palms characterized by long rigid stems, devoid of ramifications, provided with the residues of the leaf sheaths of a reticulated and fibrous appearance on which the fan-shaped leaves are inserted, divided into a variable number of segments depending on the species, provided with a thin petiole with evident parallel ribs and with slightly toothed margins.

The flowers are grouped in ramified inflorescences that emerge at the axilla of the leaves located in the highest part of yellow, pink, orange color depending on the species and variety. Being dioecious plants we have "female plants" and "male plants" that is to say that there are plants that bear only male flowers and plants that bear only female flowers.

The fruits are oblong and contain only one seed per fruit.

MAIN SPECIES

There are about 12 species in this genus among which we remember:

RHAPIS EXCELSA

There R. excelsa it is among the different species of the genus the best known and most widespread so as to be called the lady of the palms.

It is a plant that adapts very well to being grown both indoors and outdoors, where the climatic conditions allow it, reaching 3-4 m in height.It is characterized by leaves that resemble bamboo with long stems rigid, without branching, 1 to 3 cm in diameter and covered with dark colored fibrous material which is nothing more than the leaf sheath. The leaves are fan-shaped divided into 5-8 segments with 30 cm long stems. It produces pinkish inflorescences.

RHAPIS HUMULIS

There R. umilis it is very similar to the excelsa from which it differs in that the stems have a thinner diameter. The leaves are always cut-out divided into 10-20 segments and are up to 25-30 cm long. It is much less widespread than the previous one.

CULTURAL TECHNIQUE

They are easy to grow plants.

The optimal temperatures during the spring-summer period must be around 20 ° C while in winter it is preferable that they do not drop below 10 ° C but also bear temperatures around 0 ° C as long as not for long periods.

They love the light but not the direct sun so if during the summer you bring it to the garden, find it a shady position.

Since the leaves are very large and get dusty easily, clean them using a soft cloth simply wet with water. Do not use any chemical product and least of all foliar polishes which are harmful for all plants (as they clog the stomata of plants preventing them from breathing), but in particular for this plant.

WATERING

It should be watered abundantly during the spring-summer period so that the soil remains moist. During autumn and winter, the soil should be watered to prevent the soil from drying out. For these plants it is preferable to make mistakes in defect than in excess of water.

Throughout the year, but in particular during the hottest periods, it is good to sprinkle warm water on the fronds in order to guarantee a certain level of humidity in the air and / or place the pot on expanded clay or gravel where there will be some water which evaporates, will maintain a humid environment around the plant. Make sure that the bottom of the pot is not in contact with water.

TYPE OF SOIL - REPOT

Plants of Rhapis they are repotted in spring (March-April), usually every two years using a good fertile soil mixed with a little coarse sand to favor the drainage of the irrigation water and taking care to arrange the pieces of earthenware on the bottom of the pot in order to favor the rapid draining of excess water.

They are plants that do not like large pots therefore even if it may seem that the size of the pot is too small for the plant, do not worry.Oversized pots will have more soil, so a greater amount of water will be retained and considering that the worst enemy of these plants are water stagnant, it is strongly not recommended to use large pots.

As the repotting proceeds over the years, reach up to a maximum of 30 cm, after which simply renew the first 5 cm of soil with fresh soil.

FERTILIZATION

During the spring and summer, the plant must be fertilized every week, reducing the doses compared to what is reported in the fertilizer package. During the other periods the fertilizations must be suspended.

Use a good complete fertilizer that means that in addition to having the so-called macroelements such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) they also contain the so-called microelements, i.e. those compounds that the plant needs in minimal quantity still needs it) such as magnesium (Mg), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), all important for a correct and balanced growth of the plant.

FLOWERING

They are summer flowering plants.

The flowers are grouped in inflorescences that develop at the axil of the leaves.

PRUNING

Plants of Rhapis they are not pruned. Only the leaves that dry up should be removed (the fact that the lower leaves dry is normal) to avoid them becoming a vehicle for parasitic diseases and they must be cut at the point where they leave the stem.

If, due to low ambient humidity, the tips of the leaves dry out, it is not necessary to remove them, just cut off the tip.

Make sure that the tool you use for cutting is clean and disinfected (preferably over a flame) to avoid infecting the tissues.

MULTIPLICATION

The multiplication of this plant is very simple and takes place through the germs are formed at the base of the plant. They are removed either in spring (April) or in autumn (September) simply by separating them from the mother plant with some roots.

Treat the cut parts with sulfur powder and then plant it in single pots using a soil as indicated for adult plants and treated as such.

PARASITES AND DISEASES

The leaves appear burned

This symptom is due to direct exposure to the sun.
Remedies: remove the damaged leaves and move the plant to a bright place but not in direct sun.

Dark spots on the underside of the leaves

Brown spots on the underside of the leaves could mean an attack of cochineal and in particular of the brown cochineal or mealy cochineal. To recognize them, observe them with a magnifying glass and compare them with the photo on the side, you can't go wrong. Also if you try to remove them with a fingernail, they come off without problems.

Remedies: they must be eliminated using a cotton swab soaked in alcohol or if the plant is large, you can wash it with water and neutral soap by rubbing gently with a sponge to remove the parasites, after which rinse the plant.

For larger plants you can use specific pesticides.

The tips of the leaves dry out

This symptom is due to a lack of ambient humidity.
Remedy: the remedy is preventive, remembering to regularly spray the plant with warm water in order to guarantee a humid environment and during the winter season, equip the radiators with humidifiers and keep the plant on a sub-pot with gravel or expanded clay with a a trickle of water (which is not in contact with the roots) which evaporating will keep the environment humid.

Leaves with damaged tips can only be shortened to eliminate the dry part.

Leaves that begin to turn yellow, appear mottled with yellow and brown, shorten and fall off

This symptom indicates the presence of the red spider, a very annoying mite. If you look carefully you can also notice thin cobwebs, especially in the lower page of the leaves.

Remedies: increase the environmental humidity with the nebulizations to the foliage as the lack of humidity favors their proliferation and possibly, only in the case of serious infestations, use a specific insecticide. If the plant is not particularly large, you can also try cleaning the leaves to mechanically eliminate the parasite using a wet and soapy cotton ball. After that the plant was rinsed very well to get rid of the soap.

CURIOSITY'

The name of the genus comes from the Greek rhapís «Rod, whip» for its long and thin stems reminiscent of reeds.

They are not fast-growing plants therefore when we go to the nurseries and see these splendid palms at sometimes prohibitive prices, it is not the fault of the nurseryman, but of the fact that to reach a certain size, it takes many years.


Clivia

It is loved and appreciated as an indoor plant for its beautiful inflorescences of orange-red bell-shaped flowers (but now also many others) that sprout in the center of ribbon-like leaves: it is called Clivia, and is a genus of Monocotyledonous plants, which they are grown in pots (at home or in greenhouses), of South African origin.

Clivia is an evergreen rhizomatous plant that develops a large root system composed of rather thick and fleshy rhizomatous roots that occupy what is the space available to them but enhancing the flowering of the plant.

The leaves, which start from the bulb, are ribbon-like with obtuse tip and very intense green color, can exceed one meter in length and reach a width of 5-7 cm.

Orange flowers develop on the apex of the stem. The umbrella-shaped inflorescences are carried by rigid stems and are formed by about ten tubular or funnel-shaped flowers that begin to appear in early spring, after winter rest. Each single plant can carry 40-50 flowers per stem.

The fruits of the clivia are fleshy red berries, with a ripening that lasts several months.

As an adult the plant produces numerous suckers useful for its reproduction.


Cultivation of White Hydrangea lady of the mountains

Plant and soil of the Hydrangea Paniculata

These Hydrangea Hydrangeas are particularly easy to grow and undemanding.

They adapt to various types of terrain, however they shy away from cohesive and heavy soils, where water retention is excessive. In practice, they do not like very much those excessively clayey soils that retain a lot of water in rainy periods, turning almost into swamps and in summer they crack and split.

This variety of Hydrangea also does not like excessively calcareous soils, even if these plants are not particularly demanding towards the pH of the soil, as they much prefer moderately acid soils.

We still recommend dig a hole at least twice the size the size of the pot in which the plant is contained. I suggest you insert acidophilic soil and then plant the plant.

These types of soil are easily found in any garden center.

Fertilization

Hydrangeas are plants that need well-balanced and rich nutritional supplies.

I therefore recommend you soil for hydrangea and the addition of organic matter such as pelleted manure, which must be buried at the base of the plant not too close to the trunk in late autumn, so that it penetrates the ground during the winter.

Before the vegetative restart, we will then intervene with a slow release chemical fertilizer, well balanced and rich in microelements, so that the plant, awakening from the long winter, finds all the substances necessary for a healthy and balanced development. On the market there are specific ones for Hydrangee.

Flowering and Pruning

The Paniculate Hydrangeas, entering the vegetation later than the other Hydrangeas and managing to avoid damage from late frosts, they bloom from the end of June onwards, covering the whole summer period.

Finally, blooming late on the vegetation of the same year, they can be safely pruned in the winter, even if the best period to carry out this agronomic practice remains the months of February-March. The cut can also be drastic. In fact, by greatly shortening the vegetation of the previous year up to 30 cm from the ground, you will get tidier bushes and larger inflorescences.

Having said that it must be said that the Paniculate Hydrangeas they can also be not pruned letting the bush express itself in its beauty. In this case, we will limit ourselves to cleaning the plant from dry flowers and dry or damaged branches.

These operations are important and it is important to use the right tools, such as pruning shears , well sharpened and clean, to avoid hurting the plant and causing infections.

Exposure

As already mentioned this type of bush it is extremely rustic and, as far as exposure is concerned, this Hydrangea, unlike the others, needs sun to have abundant flowering.

The only caution is, especially in the regions of our south, that of find a location where the sun is not present in the central hours of the day, to avoid light burns on the sepals and on the apical margin of the leaf.

Irrigation

As everyone knows theHydrangea loves water, therefore in the summer period these plants must be watered abundantly, taking care, however, that there is no stagnation. Penalty the death of plants.

L'watering must be regular, because long periods of drought are poorly tolerated and all this is to the detriment of the good development and flowering of the plant.


How to multiply the zamioculcas

Zamioculcas plants do not need much water to multiply and grow from large, thick rhizomes that resemble potatoes. The latter store water, which is why the plant grows well even during drought and in places where owners live who have little time to water it or sometimes forget about it. Propagate the zamioculcas it is simple as it is enough separate the aforementioned rhizomes and replant them, while another method is to cut two leaves and a bit of stem. After all, it should be emphasized that after careful studies, experts in the sector have found that it grows faster when more rhizomes are kept together. If the zamioculcas is treated with Fr.arsimonia remains in excellent shape, and it is possible that she will also get flowers. Finally, it will certainly be pleased to know that this plant is not very sensitive to diseases and pests as it has a strong resistance, but if it is affected, the leaves can be sprayed with biological pesticides to remove them easily. Even chemical ones, but not too harmful to human health and the environment, must be carefully evaluated, so consulting with an expert in the sector is a good choice to safeguard both.


In its natural environment, the life cycle of the Jericho Rose ends at the beginning of the dry season, when dehydrating the plant folds the branches into a compact spheroidal mass. This protects the seeds and prevents premature dispersal. Dormant seeds can remain viable for years.

The rose of Jericho spontaneously separates its twigs into two or more bulbs, if you want to reproduce then just detach them and reposition them elsewhere thus creating new plants.


How hoya kerrii is treated

The hoya does not need special care to be kept indoors, it even manages to flower after a few years if treated well. To be able to make it grow, it is good that its roots are free from straw where it is often closed when buying. It is also necessary to pay attention to the stagnation of liquids which is not good for the plant, the pot must have small holes and must always be dry. It is also very important that the plant is not exposed directly to the sun but better in a bright area. In winter it can withstand up to 10 degrees while in summer it can withstand temperatures up to 27 degrees. The flowers it produces are waxy and very fragrantmoreover, they last a long time for a truly unique result.

Hoya kerrii yellowed, what to do

If the leaves are yellowed in most cases it will be the fault of the wrong position or vessel. First check that the plant does not receive direct sun. Then, check that the pot has holes in it and therefore the water can drain safely, leaving the roots of the plant dry.


Video: Rhapis palm care and propagation. रपस पम क घन बनन क फड. palm care in hindi


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