Each grower has his own individual vision of whether to dig up lilies or not, and, if so, at what time it should be done. As an autumn preparation, they dig up lily bulbs or equip a special winter cover for them in the form of fallen leaves or spruce branches. There is another opinion that the abundant flowering of lilies is possible without these additional activities of caring flower lovers. Such contradictory actions have their own explanation.
Lily is an unpretentious perennial flowering bulbous plant, which has a huge number of varieties, varieties, hybrids in its family. Each has its own growing characteristics and climate requirements. Different varieties endure the cold winter period in different ways: some can calmly remain in the ground during all cold months or under an additional cover, while others can die in frost and therefore have to be dug up and stored until spring under certain conditions. For example:
Asian hybrids with babies must be removed from the ground in the autumn to separate the babies from the mother's bulb, since they take all the nutrients and water from her. A large number of such processes have a negative effect on the development and flowering of the entire plant.
Another important argument in favor of extracting lily bulbs from the soil in the autumn is the ability of this flowering perennial to self-poison. Harmful substances that accumulate in the bulbs for several years are released into the soil. The earth is saturated with these substances and, instead of nutrition, brings great harm to plants, as a result of which lilies begin to lose their decorative qualities and get very sick. The number of colors and their sizes are reduced. To avoid this, it is recommended to transplant lilies to a new site every 4-5 years or replace the soil layer in the same place.
The timing for harvesting the bulbs for storage depends on the varietal characteristics of the lilies and the climatic conditions in which they grow. Each variety has a different ripening period for the bulbs, and this is the main indicator for their harvesting. In order for the lily bulbs to mature and reach their maximum size, it is necessary to give them time to stock up on the required amount of nutrients, which they take, including from the stems and leaves after flowering. It is very important not to cut the lily shoots after the end of the flowering period, but to give them the opportunity to die off naturally. Cut off the stems and leaves ahead of time will deprive the bulbs of the opportunity to grow and prepare for wintering.
If we take the middle zone of Russia as an example, then here lilies are stored in the following order:
All the dates for digging lilies are approximate, because they depend on the weather and climatic conditions of the area in which these flowering perennials are grown.
Every year garden lilies are gaining more and more popularity among flower growers. They can be seen not only in gardens, but also in city flower beds. Planting material becomes more diverse and more accessible every season. And therefore, questions arise about how to properly care for these flowers. For example, when to dig up lilies after flowering, and is it really necessary to do it at all? Let's take a look at this issue. And also how to properly store or transplant lilies.
The optimal time when you can transplant lilies from one place to another is autumn. Specific dates depend on the region of their growth. For example, in Central Russia it is worth doing this in late August - early September, and in the southern regions - from late mid-September to mid-October.
Important! Regardless of how long the transplant is planned, it should be carried out only after the end of the flowering period.
Lilies in the flowerbed during the flowering season
The first two to three years of growth, lilies growing in the open field bloom luxuriantly and develop actively. However, after this period, the flowers begin to become smaller, decorativeness is lost, young shoots develop more slowly. All this can be avoided with a transplant. A lily transplant is necessary to avoid:
There are hybrid varieties that can not be transplanted for 10 years, but they are not very popular among flower growers. Most varieties need to be replanted annually.
The period when you can plant lilies in the fall depends both on the region of flower growth and on the variety of lilies. To do this, you need to have an idea of the features of the development cycles of the acquired variety. So, for example, the Candidum variety goes into a dormant state at the end of summer. At this time, it is worth thinking about transplanting other bulbs. The first half of September is suitable for transplanting early flowering varieties. Tubular or oriental varieties can be replanted in the first half of October or during the spring months.
Important! If the average daily temperature drops to 0 ° C, then it will no longer be possible to plant the lilies, since the bulbs can become supercooled, the development of the root system will slow down, and immunity to fungal and infectious diseases will decrease.
It is quite permissible to replant Asian and early varieties in the spring, even in the initial period of budding. Immediately after that, they must be immediately shaded slightly and watered thoroughly.
After the plant has faded, it should be prepared for winter. But, how and when to cut off the faded lilies, while not harming her? This process begins with pruning off dried buds. They should be removed to prevent the formation and maturation of seeds, which contribute to a greater expenditure of energy and nutrients necessary for plant life. Complete pruning of wilting stems and leaves is strictly prohibited. After flowering, lilies are cut off exclusively at the end of the season, while maintaining the annual roots, which are located at ground level. Cut the plant with a garden tool with a clean and sharp blade (knife, garden shears, or pruning shears). To avoid contamination of flowers with viral diseases, they should be treated with a disinfectant before pruning. Approximately 2/3 of the stem is removed. The cut is made obliquely. On such a stem, rainwater will not accumulate and rot will be avoided.
Every summer, rusty spots appear on the leaves of lilies, which then turn into buds and even flowers. How to deal with this?
This is a fungal disease of botrytis lilies. Lilies must be sprayed several times per season with Bordeaux liquid (or any preparation containing copper). The drug "Zircon" helps well. Two sprays per season are enough: in spring, with the regrowth of leaves, and before flowering. Botrytis infects only the aerial part of the plants and, fortunately, does not spread to the bulbs.
How to keep lilies from wireworms?
Just like other plants. Add "Bazudin", "Thunder-2" or "Pochin" to the soil when planting bulbs. But the best soil is "Protection". This soil and preparations can be used not only during planting, but also on a flowering plantation. It is only necessary to make them into the soil, and not scatter them over the surface. It is possible and old-fashioned - place a handful of onion peels under the onion when planting.
How to protect lilies from the lily hoverfly?
This red beetle is not afraid of any drugs, except for "Sonnet", which is used against the Colorado potato beetle. In the spring, as soon as you see beetles or their larvae, or just notice that someone is eating the leaves of the lilies, immediately treat all the lilies with this preparation. One spraying per season is usually sufficient.
Most of the varietal planting material sold in local flower shops is frost-hardy plant types. However, it is worth clarifying the belonging of lilies to one or another type of hybrid form.
Without fail, lilies must be dug up for the winter if they belong to varieties such as Oriental and American, tubular and Asian.
However, hybrids of LA lilies need to be dug up and transplanted annually in any climatic conditions, since it is almost impossible to achieve re-flowering from them without this agrotechnical technique. This is due to the fact that these varieties quickly form numerous babies, which literally take away nutrients from the central bulb.
No need to dig for the winter: Pennsylvanian and Asian hybrid, Matragon and Candidium, Daurian and OA hybrid. It goes without saying that the widespread and acclimatized tiger lily is absolutely not whimsical to frost and frost on the soil.
The rest of the varieties require mulching the soil with a thick layer of sawdust or spruce paws. On top of this, a protective shelter is laid.
When and how to dig up lilies for the winter?
An important point in the correctness of any agrotechnical operation is timeliness. Do I need to dig up lilies - we have already given the answer to this question above. After the decision has been made, it is important to determine the timing of this operation.
Approximate dates for when to dig lilies for the winter:
oriental and regionalized hybrids with late flowering dates - the first half of September
LA and Asian forms of hybrid varieties - second half of August
OT, OA and other hybrids - after August 20.
You can independently determine the moment when to dig up lilies in your area. Usually, by this time, the entire aboveground part should completely droop and turn yellow. If this did not happen, then after the onset of September 20, all varieties and hybrids, without exception, are dug up. But this is only if it is planned to store the resulting bulbs at home. If you plan to immediately plant the material back into the ground, then digging and replanting the lilies later than September 10 is not permissible. Plants will not have time to develop a sufficient root system and will die from the first frost with a small snow cover.
So, the answer to the question of whether lilies are dug up for the winter is ambiguous and the decision is made by each grower independently.
Experts recommend, of course, to dig up all types of lilies in order to be able to work with the selection of planting material and ensure full flowering every year. Therefore, experienced flower growers dig up lilies for the winter, sort and create favorable conditions for storing planting material.
Basic rules for digging lily bulbs:
using a garden fork, carefully and carefully raise a clod of earth with bulbs to the surface
grasping the stems, gently shake off the earth and examine for the presence of children
the stems are cut at a height of 5 cm from the bulb
revision of the root system is carried out when rinsing under running water
excess root mass is cut off, leaving only roots up to 5 cm long
without exception, all the fractions of the bulbs are put in a basin and filled with a warm solution of karbofos or weak potassium permanganate and left in this form for 40 minutes
then you can roll the onions in crushed charcoal or ash and calibrate
send to dry in a dark, cool place.
Next, you should sort all the bulbs. The largest bulbs can be used to forcing flowers for the next year. Those that are small and children will need to be grown for later use. This is done like this: after planting and the formation of buds, they are all removed. The plant does not bloom in the first year.
In order to preserve the lily bulbs in winter, we need to create favorable conditions. Take any container (you can use a plastic one with a lockable lid. Place a 5 cm layer of sawdust or wood shavings on the bottom, spray with water. Then lay the bulbs and cover them with a 10 cm layer of sawdust, moss or wood chips. Spray with water and cover with a lid. It is necessary to make several small holes in the lid in order for air to enter.
For storage, place containers in a basement or refrigerator in a city apartment.
Now you know how to dig up and store lily bulbs in winter.
You can store lily bulbs anywhere with suitable conditions. For the winter, gardeners send them:
Summer residents often store lily bulbs until the next planting in the ground in the refrigerator. This is not the most suitable place, but if there is no basement or cellar, you can use it too.
Dried gladiolus bulbs can be stored in the basement or at home:
When storing bulbs in an apartment, the air temperature should not be more than +20 degrees.